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Old 27 February 2012, 18:15   #41
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Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards View Post
Before you go cutting the transom measure it! Is it a 20 or 25 ? your engine is suited to a 20. May be you require an XL.

TBH the hull looks cheaply built, I see it's warped under the engine brackets in some pictures.

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
i double checked not warp it silcone sealer tht squirting out on the sides maybe u can quote a pic
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Old 27 February 2012, 18:22   #42
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i double checked not warp it silcone sealer tht squirting out on the sides maybe u can quote a pic
Not the standard I'd accept on a brand new boat!

Is it manufactured plated and rated (looks like it is in the pic I added) ? Or is it a home build ?

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Old 27 February 2012, 18:22   #43
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Old 27 February 2012, 18:23   #44
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There's your problem

On another subject who's done the rebuild on the motor ? Looks like "instant sealer" to me. Is its compression equal ?

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Old 27 February 2012, 18:31   #45
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Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards View Post
Not the standard I'd accept on a brand new boat!

Is it manufactured plated and rated (looks like it is in the pic I added) ? Or is it a home build ?

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
nope its just dirty where it changes color it warp look like it

to tell u the truth i was gonna buy a used complete rib, so went to local guys in cpt who a close friend recommend who does retubing to get a quote jst incase i bought one tht needed tubes, and he had 2 of theses hulls laying there which he told he would tube for a good price. apparently these guys are good because he had loads of pics up in his shop of his whole team working and building boats up in romania and they had pic of nice boats so i went with them, and my buddy has a pretty nice boat which they had retubed
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Old 27 February 2012, 18:33   #46
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Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards View Post
There's your problem

On another subject who's done the rebuild on the motor ? Looks like "instant sealer" to me. Is its compression equal ?

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
compression is hundred percent equal did a compression test they used new gaskets from agents dnt ask y there is sealer i bought gasket myself
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Old 27 February 2012, 18:35   #47
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It's still too short !

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Old 27 February 2012, 18:59   #48
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I had a similar engine but less hp on my bullet ski boat. Was a great motor, always a turn key boat and would literally launch out of the water when I hit the foot throttle.

Looks like You have a 25 inch leg, long shaft, but the transom seems to be for a 30 inch or extra long shaft.

Instead of chopping the transom I would suggest getting a transom bracket made up. Google outboard jack plate and you will see lots of adjustable brackets that bolt onto where your engine currently is and then you bolt the engine to that. There are hydraulically adjustable ones from places like Bobs Machine Shop bobsmachine.com which are really good but are very expensive. You could get a fixed one fabricated once you have seen one.

The flat horizontal fin above the propellor is the cavitation plate. That needs to be in a straight line with the bottom of the hull directly in front of it, ie the V part. Having said that, lighter boats with lots of hp are usually higher but you need to experiment. Higher might be an inch or so, not 5 or so like you currently have.

Also if you do a jack plate, the further back you come, the higher you go, but once again only a bit.

Some racers run really high engine heights but you need semi surfacing propellors and a way to get water into the outboard. Too hard for leisure use.

Hope this helps.
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Old 27 February 2012, 19:05   #49
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Outboard jacks are not designed to compensate for incorrect shaft lengths!

I see it as he has a long shaft (suitable for a 20" transom) and he needs a XL (suitable for a 25" transom). I think 30" would be far too long

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Old 27 February 2012, 20:09   #50
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5 pages-WOW...lol.

the answer is simple my friend. forget cutting the transom/jack plates etc-sell the engine, buy the right size (about 90hp) and buy the correct shaft length. bolt on a yam 90hp ish and enjoy.

agree with peter-you need an XL

cheers
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Old 27 February 2012, 20:20   #51
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lol thaks i will longer the shaft or drop the motor, with jack plate which will ever work me out cheaper

if it doesn't still work i will sell my lump, and buy me a correct shaft length and a 90ish mercury motor.mecury number one on the water loll
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Old 27 February 2012, 20:24   #52
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the cheapest option without doubt is the best one-sell the motor and buy the proper one buddy.

cheers
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Old 27 February 2012, 21:13   #53
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the cheapest option without doubt is the best one-sell the motor and buy the proper one buddy.

cheers
Seconded-you'll end up paying extra for another motor, but it'll work the way it should.

Older motors rarely came in XL shaft length so I suspect you'll have problems extending the shaft.

A jackplate (IF you can get one with enough setback to be able to turn the engine and tilt it properly as well as accomodate the hydraulic lines for the old style trim/tilt) will simply create extra stress on a transom that is unlikely to be up to the job of carrying a 225 for any length of time.
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Old 27 February 2012, 21:20   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boats&Outboards
Outboard jacks are not designed to compensate for incorrect shaft lengths!

I see it as he has a long shaft (suitable for a 20" transom) and he needs a XL (suitable for a 25" transom). I think 30" would be far too long

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ askboatsandoutboards4sale@sky.com ~ 07930 421007
Peter,

You are absolutely correct Peter, the lengths are as you say, haven't had my morning coffee yet.

I also agree that the proper way to correct the issue is to get a motor with the right length shaft but I was under the impression that due to an isolated location, that was not a reasonable option. Boats converted from sterndrives often have a pod fitted so my non expert opinion was that it was a possibility.
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Old 27 February 2012, 21:29   #55
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Originally Posted by kubcat

Peter,

You are absolutely correct Peter, the lengths are as you say, haven't had my morning coffee yet.

I also agree that the proper way to correct the issue is to get a motor with the right length shaft but I was under the impression that due to an isolated location, that was not a reasonable option. Boats converted from sterndrives often have a pod fitted so my non expert opinion was that it was a possibility.
No worries. I wasn't meaning to correct you. Jacks could work in certain situations but is not a solution and creates its own issues. I though it best tell the OP as it sounds like he's had a lot of suggestions when really there's only one real option. Get the correct engine.

Cutting into a new hull, fitting jacks & extending the motor are just going to give they guy more things to get wrong.

buying an XL - Problem solved.

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