50 Yamaha

RIB-Teccie · 23 March 2014, 10:04

The restoration is gathering pace!! Next stop clearcote!!

Tim&Linda · 23 March 2014, 10:55

very nice

spartacus · 23 March 2014, 12:21

Nice job.

A1an · 23 March 2014, 13:00

Looking good.

Just finished one myself, lid away getting new decals.

Genuine 60 just with the mariner yoke.

RIB-Teccie · 23 March 2014, 13:40

A proper workshop, that's cheating!

RIB-Teccie · 23 March 2014, 13:45

A1an,

Just a tip. Sometimes those shocks can be ineffective after lots of use. They allow the engine to tip up when slowing down.

If you get an adjustable angle grinder disk key off eBay for a fiver, they work perfectly. Then refill with SAE 30 hydraulic oil, about eight quid on eBay. You will stiffen them back up and they will last years more.

Gramas · 23 March 2014, 14:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIB-Teccie

The restoration is gathering pace!! Next stop clearcote!!

Looks great, would love to build an engine up if knew how , looks same colour ral as my 90 yam

A1an · 23 March 2014, 16:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIB-Teccie

A1an,

Just a tip. Sometimes those shocks can be ineffective after lots of use. They allow the engine to tip up when slowing down.

If you get an adjustable angle grinder disk key off eBay for a fiver, they work perfectly. Then refill with SAE 30 hydraulic oil, about eight quid on eBay. You will stiffen them back up and they will last years more.

That's a handy tip.

In the photo of the lid can you see the yellow drum sitting on the floor?

That's SAE30!

RIB-Teccie · 24 March 2014, 14:57

Here is a tale of woe. Whoever bought the 50 Yam (presumably from new) didn't use marine two stroke oil. They also premixed on top of relying on the oil injection.

How do I know.

1. Oil in the carbs (should have been none) and it had rotted all the plugs and seals into a black sticky mush.

2. The oil burned rather than correctly lubricating the engine. Deposits half way down the pistons.

3. The factory honing marks are still visible on the bores. Engine must be under 50 hours or less.

4. The deposits were around what you would expect at 500 hours.

5. The oil hardened the crank seals and caused them to fail.

The oil was red and had a strange smell, possibly chainsaw or moped oil.

If you want to cost yourself a fortune and have your engine last 5 minutes, that's the way to go.

Also, it had not been flushed through with fresh water, huge salt deposits round the thermostat.

Fortunately, this is fixable, but it could just have easily been beyond repair. All for the price of a good outboard two stroke and a bit of knowledge.

Forgetthedock · 24 March 2014, 15:43

Good Work. I got one in the garage I need to get on.... *Sigh*

spartacus · 24 March 2014, 15:50

Interesting pics RIB-Teccie. Reckon you found that 50hp just in time. It's all fixable. Luckily you have the skills to overhaul. You'll be a few quid on gaskets, assuming you can get 'em trade price, but at least you know it's done.

What was it powering before?

RIB-Teccie · 24 March 2014, 19:05

It was on the back of a Sims Super V. It's difficult to believe something can be ruined in next to no time. Pistons were a pig to clean up, it was baked on.

Got all parts from the USA, not trade but not badly priced.

RIB-Teccie · 24 March 2014, 19:31

All skills learned in Stonehaven, Spartacus!!!

RIB-Teccie · 25 March 2014, 16:43

The engine is well on the way to a full recovery!!

spartacus · 25 March 2014, 17:25

On the cylinder head - what are the two components held in place with Philips screws on the left hand side? Are they zinc anodes?

RIB-Teccie · 25 March 2014, 18:11

Yes, they protect the internals from corrosion. If an engine is in daily salt water use they will last 500 Hours. You would usually decoke a two stroke at these hours.