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Old 06 October 2015, 07:24   #1
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2 stroke shut off procedure

As a total newbie I’ve been trawling this forum and googling to find the proper shut down procedure for a 2 stroke but have found conflicting information. I have been prompted to look into after I ran the outboard (Johnson 4hp MY2000) in a test tank for around 15 mins, I lifted (tilted) the shaft to its highest point and left it for a few minutes. After removing the test tank I dropped the shaft back to normal, there was a strong smell of fuel and on inspection I found fuel dripping from the case. After removing the lower case and wiping up the leaked fuel, I could not find an obvious source but the carb throat was very wet. Would I be correct in thinking that the fuel in the float chamber could seep through and then out of the carb throat?
I had shut off by pulling the kill-switch cord and shutting of the fuel, is this the correct procedure or should the fuel be turned off and engine run until the fuel in carb has been used?
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Old 06 October 2015, 07:46   #2
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i always store my 2 strokes dry.

i.e run the fuel out them completely and store, if for a long time a wee bit of fogging oil down the plug hole too.

the fuel from the carb could be you tilted it too far or stuck float or just residual fuel in the carb that wasn't burnt off.

shut off during normal use there is sometimes a button on the engine (usually where the kill cord goes in you push that to kill it). failing that just pull the kill cord.

HTH
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Old 06 October 2015, 08:05   #3
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Many years ago I used to stop sailing club engines by disconnecting the fuel supply and running ashore just on the remaining fuel in the carb. There was a skill in judging it so you arrived at the shore just as the engine cut out. Those engines lasted well with that approach each week, but there is a school of thought that for a premix two stroke you are running the engine lean and thus oiling it less before stopping which could be bad.

Its generally agreed that leaving fuel in carbs (especially premix) is not a good idea for long. periods. However I don't think a leak is expected from tilting, although perhaps not uncommon.
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Old 06 October 2015, 08:22   #4
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+1 on Poly et al rnning dry.

One importany point - is it premix or is there an oil tank on the engine?
- Premix if you donlt run it dry the TCW3 will likely end up blocking your idle jets etc.
- as for running lean the other trick is as it starts to make different noises, pul lthe choke. not only does it richen the mixture but it also gets a bit more fuel out the carb!

My personal view is that there is going to be more than enough residual oil in the crankcase to let t turn for the 10 or so revs it wil llast at that moment, especially as it's at idle therefore running cooler. (remember an automixer wil likely be oiling at 200ish:1 at that speed, so a lean premix 50:1 won't be an issue


Now, as for leaky carbs...... the fundamental flaw with some carbhs is the inlet valve float is hinged in the wrong place. As the engine tilts you want that valve to kee pthe inlet shut (a bit like a hamster drinking bottle - the water stays in by the vacuum at the top). If, like my Clamshell, the valve natrally falls open by gravity......

For me it's a run dry every time. - Usually on the muffs as I'll be flushing it.
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Old 06 October 2015, 08:58   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280 View Post
One importany point - is it premix or is there an oil tank on the engine?
It is premix, would it be OK to burn of residual fuel by running with fuel turned off?

I've just had it out (after two weeks stood up in the shed) on a stand and without running it I titted it to its max position and left it for 30 mins or so, NO leaking fuel

So I assume it was just the residual fuel that had leaked previously. It will be used on a 2.7m SIB which be be rolled up and transported in the car boot along with the outboard. My corcern is not getting any residual fuel leaking into car boot. What do others do in this situation?
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Old 06 October 2015, 10:08   #6
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run the engine dry before putting it in the car...job done.
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Old 06 October 2015, 10:10   #7
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run the engine dry before putting it in the car...job done.
That would be my solution too, put wanted to check as I've seen some posts that say never run a 2 stroke dry.

Thanks
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Old 06 October 2015, 10:15   #8
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>>>some posts that say never run a 2 stroke dry

I may be one of those.

My usual experience 2hp-25hp is... I stop the engine at idle and remove the fuel line or switch the fuel off at the tap if an integral tank. Never had a problem with them leaking in the car or being a problem to start... even after 14mths standing.

Not saying others that run dry are wrong...just I've never felt the need.
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Old 06 October 2015, 10:51   #9
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I may be one of those.
Really! LOL

Thanks Fenlander.

Seems there are definately two camps of opinion on this. I guess the safest option would be to put an impervious sheet in the boot and try it without running until dry.
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Old 06 October 2015, 11:23   #10
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there are indeed 2 camps, those than run it dry and those that SHOULD run it dry

you are giving yourself more potential problems not doing so IMO. moisture attracted to bores, petrol smell, petrol spills, varnish build up, those largely go away running it dry.
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