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Old 14 April 2018, 15:39   #11
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Citric acid crystals bought, mixed 250g with approx a gallon of water. Assumed some kind of home made chute would be in order to get water into leg, not as easy as I thought, solution just sat in chute and dripped away. MK2 was a funnel with a new silicone tube nozzle melted into a shape, nozzle fits just inside but only allows a trickle of solution into the leg, guess work as to why either serious blockage or narrow waterways

Out of curiosity I slowed pulled the cord to see if it would digest the solution any quicker and got solution pumping out of the cylinder head - spark plug was removed. Don't think solution got in from spills only other reason would be me pouring solution into what I read was where the water exits the leg (red arrow) my logic, if water exits at that point I can fill from both sides

Outboard now right way up - quite a lot of the water mix came out so slow as it was I'd been getting some in - including it looks like through the wrong hole. Will go back to shed this eve and get any remains out, some oil into the chamber and for good measure have a look inside the carb!

Edit: Impeller doesn't look as good as I thought, first time I've removed or seen one in the hand last week. From reading they should be solid and vertical, bent over (tensioned) inside the water 'chamber' in the right direction, the pressure forms a seal and enough pressure to force water up. As you lot are saying likely to be a combination of narrowed waterways and the impeller.
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Old 15 April 2018, 04:25   #12
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Sounds like cylinder head gasket has blown and your right impeller needs changing
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Old 15 April 2018, 14:21   #13
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Bit of time for some tinkering today, so decided to start the gasket process. Got the bolts undone* and sat puzzled for a while as to why the cylinder/powerhead wouldn't come away despite me taking off the lower legs bolts. An old post on YBW forum gave me the courage to hit the poor old outboard with a hammer - carefully using a block of wood I will add.

Ta dar, lower leg/gearbox off as the driveshaft splines had become stuck together and access to the cylinder head (correct term?) Not much doing in the way of salt, what was there came off easily I daresay the citric acid had softened it by now.

*The 6 bolts were not very tight, one was barely done up and the others needed just a light firm tweak to start them off.

I had a good look at the brass water tube, shining a bright light down it from the curved end but nothing doing there either all walls of tube are clear with no deposits

The engine has been opened before as there were traces of liquid gasket seal inside the water ways, not really anything to cause a blockage I think. So far having a careful poke around with a screwdriver none of the round channels are blocked. I started a bit of a clean and with the last bit of time I had chanced my arm with the cylinder head nuts

One was hand tight - if that - and two others came undone with little effort. Murphy's law in effect there is one that is quite solid and 'by feel' I'm pretty sure the next thing to happen will be the head snapping off. Would take any advice on this

From research penetrating oil/spray with comes up as does heating the nut - I have a blow torch with an accurate nozzle so could try that. This was mentioned, not used it myself, makes sense though to shrink not expand

I have some of Quicksilver marine grease wondering if it suitable for bolts before putting them back, can I use that on the spline/top of drive shaft
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Old 15 April 2018, 14:35   #14
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A bit cleaner.. Bit more to go!

Just reading back my post and thinking about your last comment Jeff, with the hand tight bolts and impeller that might be all. Maybe not blown gasket but loose bolts?

I'm into it now so would rather take it all apart, clean, fit new bits and see how it goes - just the pesky bolt to shift
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Old 15 April 2018, 16:06   #15
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My guess is the pump has been pumping but has been dragging air in as a Ventura effect causing the water to be laden with air and not cooling or indeed causing an air lock hence the overheating, with that bolt I would heat up tap with a hammer to shock it and use freeing oil if you can gat it in plus gas is supposed to be good but take your time
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Old 15 April 2018, 16:59   #16
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Hi

Splines only nothing on top air lock could acure .
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Old 16 April 2018, 02:34   #17
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thinking more about the water problem cylinder gases could have been getting into the water track with the loose head bolts more than the water pump pulling it in and with the tell tail underwater and air wanting to rise very little water has been getting round the engine. i would check the head to make sure its not warped. personally i would buy new bolts and gaskets too you come this far may as well do a top job hope you get that bolt out.
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Old 16 April 2018, 13:20   #18
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2.2 Egg beater - running problems

I'm a sucker for old vintage outboards and often go too far i.e. . when the total restoration cost of what you have becomes more than a mint one for sale at all the money, I'm now going to continue to enjoy vintage motors but I'm now only buying very good ones that really do only need an impeller as when you do a full restore that's goes on and on often due to un-flushed salt water use you often forget that if it's that bad by way of water way corrosion in the water ports the cylinders and piston rings are probably worn as well and you get it all back together at a cost that's not really worth it then find out it does not run like it should under load, but I guess it's all fun lol
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Old 16 April 2018, 15:45   #19
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Before I started with the Suzuki Iíd been making enquiries about where to take the 15hp Merc for a service near to London where they would respect the outboard. Having done the research and been given confidence from this forum and others to take apart the Suzuki Iím happy to be doing the work and in way donít mind spending the money as Iím getting a lot back from the process, Iím also now not looking for a mechanic now as Iím confident enough because of these repairs to service the Merc

Work so far - Stripped/cleaned/inspected carb, opened gearbox/inspected gear /will change oil & impeller, taken leg off/head apart for a thorough clean down and change gasket change

I think parts and consumables will be about £50 plus my time which as Iím learning and enjoying the process - provided I get the bolt out and the head isnít warped/bore or piston issues - Iíll be chuffed to look at the outboard working again. Moreover if it packs up again Iíll have a better and quicker idea of what it could be

Agreed thereís a tipping point of how much to spend on an old unit, I bought it for £160 so itís still within reason to get it working again. Good to bear in mind when taking on a non runner!
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Old 17 April 2018, 04:18   #20
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£160 for a course in outboard service & repair is well worth it just for the learning process albeit self tuition.if/when you get it running a bargain fingers crossed
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