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Old 18 February 2008, 15:05   #31
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Originally Posted by Sinistre1 View Post
Does the battery have to have that amount of amperage available for charging purposes. I already bought a battery (20 amps) and this was dictated by size (I didn't want a large battery)....
I have a 20HP Yamaha - which is connected fine to one of those "jump start" packs you get with a 21 Ah battery [it was cheaper than a battery and included a master switch, switched 12 V socket with fuse] - that I have wired in "permanently". Its survived 2 years of neglect and never has any problems starting even when left for a few months so I am sure you will be fine without. You know you can use the cord if the battery does die.
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Old 19 February 2008, 12:12   #32
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Searched around no luck with the missing piece. Turned the motor upside down and shook it. Even tapped it against my boot (footwear/ not automotive) a few times nothing. Not very confident about taking off the carb and manifold. They seem to be sealed (although I guess air has to get into the carb somehow) pretty well. Have my wiring all sorted out. Even got to dry test the starter (spark plug wires removed). Gonna be cruising in style in 6 weeks and counting. Thanks again for all the help. Couldn't have/ wouldn't have without the help and encouragement. Now i'm off to wiring up a mini (more like micro) console for my fishfinder, bilge pump/ livewell and "running lights" (can't really see myself out at night but what the heck, never know).
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Old 19 February 2008, 12:34   #33
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Originally Posted by Sinistre1 View Post
Not quite sure what this refers to. It's a twist grip throttle with the wire inside a sheath/ guide. twisting the throttle pulls the cable which pulls on some rods and levers.
OK, will try to explain this a little better......

Outboards have a habbit of using one physical lump of engine being rated at two or three horsepowers, simply for manufacturing efficiency. The way they "de rate" the smaller ones is usually to put either a restrictor plate between the carbs and the engine or mechanically stop the throttle plate before it goes wide open. Basically restricts the air into the engine so limits the horsepower, so they then stick a decal with a smaller number on the lid.

So, you said your throttle plate doesn't go all the way open. I was wondering if this was due to a loose cable or slop in part of the linkage, or whether the mechanical "open stop" on the side of the carb / throttle plae shaft was what was stopping it.

Loose cable / mechanism just needs tigtened up to get WOT. A mechanical stop on the throttle shaft will mean you actually have a smaller (I guess 9.9Hp if the currnet Johnson website is anything to go by) engine with the lid (and decals) off a 15..... unless your vintage of engine also shares its block with something bigger, in which case just leave it well alone unless your transom can take the extra HP!

Hopefully that's a bit clearer.
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Old 19 February 2008, 16:20   #34
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[QUOTE 9D280] OK, will try to explain this a little better......

Outboards have a habbit of using one physical lump of engine being rated at two or three horsepowers, simply for manufacturing efficiency. The way they "de rate" the smaller ones is usually to put either a restrictor plate between the carbs and the engine or mechanically stop the throttle plate before it goes wide open. Basically restricts the air into the engine so limits the horsepower, so they then stick a decal with a smaller number on the lid.

So, you said your throttle plate doesn't go all the way open. I was wondering if this was due to a loose cable or slop in part of the linkage, or whether the mechanical "open stop" on the side of the carb / throttle plae shaft was what was stopping it.

Loose cable / mechanism just needs tigtened up to get WOT. A mechanical stop on the throttle shaft will mean you actually have a smaller (I guess 9.9Hp if the currnet Johnson website is anything to go by) engine with the lid (and decals) off a 15..... unless your vintage of engine also shares its block with something bigger, in which case just leave it well alone unless your transom can take the extra HP!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Answers:

Turn tiller to WOT, adjust the full throttle stopper screw to a specific measurement in mm so to match the tiller painted speeds, done so, adjust the cam follower throttle at the left end by means of a screw (right/left) until you see the butterfly air lever at 180 (horizontal) that will be your full throttle final adjustment.

Although 9.9 & 15 Hp Evis 2 stroke share the same size pistons, each one has it's own crankcase with minor differences sharing most of the other parts, this model has no air restrictor found on other brand engines, to modify a 9.9 to become 15 HP you have to change the reed valves and the whole carburator, each model has it's specific carb. Years ago, lost endless days trying to convert a 9.9 to 15 HP.

Tested changing differenr size high speed gasoline orifices, with not success at all. After trowing the towell and nearly the engine, contacted the OMC Technical Manager, who is a friend of mine, told me to change the complete carb, the 15 HP has wider inside gasoline passages that of the 9.9 model. Anyway the cost of changing Reed Valves and carb is a total of $ 300 + hand labor. Many dealers won't do the convertion, it's against OMC rules, it's a matter of security.

So next time you buy a portable EVI 2 strokes if available go for the 15 HP, the dealer difference price between a 9.9 & 15 HP will be lesser than making a convertion afterwords.

Happy Boating
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Old 19 February 2008, 21:50   #35
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9D280,

It is mechanical "slop". I have to adjust a screw to push the carb open just a wee bit more. It adjusts with a hex key/ allen wrench. This one is an easy fix
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Old 20 February 2008, 07:30   #36
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Although 9.9 & 15 Hp Evis 2 stroke share the same size pistons, each one has it's own crankcase with minor differences sharing most of the other parts, this model has no air restrictor found on other brand engines, to modify a 9.9 to become 15 HP you have to change the reed valves and the whole carburator, each model has it's specific carb. Years ago, lost endless days trying to convert a 9.9 to 15 HP.
Is it any wonder they're going out of business??? My old Suz (and I checked the parts lists) Literally had the carb & The CDI as the only differences. CDI is not "plug'n'play" programmable on ye olde engines, so for two downloads in the factory that's a cheap downrate, and the carb had literally the throttle stop plate on the end of the shaft different between the two (according to the parts lists the main jets were identical). Granted the stop was brazed onto the end of the shaft, so you would need a whole new carb, but that's manufacturing efficiency for you! Two engines and one different part (well, OK, two if you count the assumed firmware change in the CDI)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Locozodiac View Post
it's against OMC rules, it's a matter of security.
Agreed - and similar for all manufacturers - I didn't say it was right or legal! (and the insurers might have something to say about it too......)
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Old 20 February 2008, 07:34   #37
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9D280,

It is mechanical "slop". I have to adjust a screw to push the carb open just a wee bit more. It adjusts with a hex key/ allen wrench. This one is an easy fix
Sounds like it's just gone slack with use. There will be another screw (I guess) to adjust the closed stop position. If it's similar to any other throttle I've used you need to get it as closed as possible, but not such that the flap jams in the hole. Probably find an 1/8 of a turn in the closed direction is enough to stick it, so do a few open / close tests before you go out!
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Old 20 February 2008, 13:04   #38
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Will do. Not going to motor out too far before I check and re-check my handi-work. Although I have oars, i'd hate to have to use them to travel any appreciable distance (say over 100 yards!). I still have a month and a couple of weeks before she is back in the water this season. The globe may or may not be warming (personal opinion aside) but the weather around here is turning over begrudgingly slowly.
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Old 26 February 2008, 12:33   #39
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One last thanks. I found the missing piece. It managed to wedge itself in the support foam of the engine hood/ cowl. I had put that aside while I worked on the electrical. When I turned it over to remove the decals (freshening up the paint and "re-decaling") the piece dropped out. Fitted them together and that is all there is! Sweet. I'll be able to cruise in peace (of mind). Have my starter switch in place. There WAS a pushbutton on the side of the shift lever but mine was broken off and the little switch was stuck. Got it released and a new starter switch assembly installed. I am SOOOOO ready for this fishing season. Gonna have the cleanest SIB in the bay.
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Old 13 March 2008, 11:47   #40
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Does this issue happen with the manual start only ones too? If it does then I think I'll be dismantling my new one (secondhand) when it gets delivered and gluing the pull cord as suggested.
thanks, Nick
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