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Old 17 February 2008, 12:03   #21
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Nos4R2, I am hoping it is what you say and it just wound up in the engine. It would be strange but I AM hoping. I AM really concerned that it IS not, though. Tried searching the net for information on circlips in the Johnson 15 series. Couldn't find any.

LocoZodiac, Please explain what you mean. Don't think you've actually said what you think it might be (unless I just didn't understand your post.) If you DO think you have an idea what it might be I would REALLY like to hear it. Maybe just a little bit less coded .

In any case, as always, I am thankful to all who have offered their help. I think I have figured out the starter problem. It appears the starter button was removed (more likely not provided by factory) and the two wires appear to be spliced together (always on). Gonna try to remove the tiller cover (where the wires terminate) and either add a switch or run a cable for a remote starter.
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Old 17 February 2008, 21:49   #22
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[Quote)
LocoZodiac, Please explain what you mean. Don't think you've actually said what you think it might be (unless I just didn't understand your post.) If you DO think you have an idea what it might be I would REALLY like to hear it. Maybe just a little bit less coded .

Hello again...

If you engine is a dual electric & manual rope start, this is the problem:

Remove the rope starter ( 3 screws) and turn it up side down, follow the Handle Starter, this item has a Guide Rope which is secured to the housing starter by means of the mysterious e ring. One of 2, you will find the other missing half part of what’s left soldered to the guide rope and the other half you already found it, if not visible in the guide rope, turn up side down your engine to see if it falls to the floor. One thing you can do is cracy glue the guide rope to the housing starter and forget all about replacing with a new e ring, this is a bad quality piece that can ruin the whole engine, will explain…

Used to have a 1996 Evi 15 HP 2 stroke engine, one day while cruising at wot in very calm waters the engine suddenly stopped with a big bang noise, we were thrown out of a 330 sib into the water, back on tried to start it again with no success , once in Lima the cylinder head was removed from the engine and water starting to come out, on the upper piston head noticed a huge deep line. The crankshaft and pistons were disarmed founding a complete crack in the upper cylinder reaching the water passage.

What happened : The famous e ring broke, one part remained secured to the guide rope the other half was literally swallowed by the carb at wot, made it’s way through the air silencer, leaf plate, gasoline intake and when it was about to be thrown out through the exhaust system the upper piston smashed it against the exhaust port (louvre) & piston rings stopping inmediately the engine. Had to replace a complete new cylinder, machine shop the other cylinder and replace with 2 new 0.25 pistons. A friend of mine did a wonderful job with the complete crankcase assembly, is still working fine now a days with it’s new satisfied owner.

Bottom line, if you own a 2 stroke 9.9 & 15 HP Evi/John engine, remove this nasty little e’ring and glue the guide rope to the assembly, you engine and you will appreciate a very far boater warned you about this avoidable serious problem. See the piston pic remains. Other e ring the same type can be found securing the starter pawl to the starter housing. See parts pic. Hope this info helps you & Other 9.9 /15 HP owners

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Old 17 February 2008, 22:15   #23
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I was gettin ready to type that I t hink I found the problem. LocoZodiac you are, I believe, right on the money. I spent a couple of hours playing detective and found that the piece that I have fits perfectly in the pull start rope housing guide thing. It looks like it is supposed to prevent the rope from pulling out or rubbing against the sides. Problem is I have no idea where the other piece is. I'm happy i found the one I have. I would REALLY hate to have the same experience you related. Would probably be the end of my boating for a good long while, with less than a quarter season under my belt. Thank you very, very much. Have to hunt down that piece (or at least until I am somewhat confident it isn't still in the engine.
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Old 17 February 2008, 22:21   #24
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Any ideas how to find the missing piece. I think it is a no-no to turn the engine upside down and shake out the offending piece. If it falls to the bottom end can it do any damage. Am I better off just looking around the top of the engine.
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Old 18 February 2008, 08:29   #25
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Any ideas how to find the missing piece. I think it is a no-no to turn the engine upside down and shake out the offending piece. If it falls to the bottom end can it do any damage. Am I better off just looking around the top of the engine.
Hola Sinistre 1

Nothing will happen if you turn upside down the engine and shake for a couple of seconds to see if the other half is hidden somewhere inside, using a compressor you could air blast the whole engine. If the cost is not high in hand labor and gasket, or if you can perform this service by yourself remove the intake manifold from the crankcase and look inside, maybe the missing half e'ring has entered the engine and is around the reed valves manifold chamber. If the missing piece passes the reeds valves while working you know what can possible happen... Will need to torque the manifold again.

About the battery issue, your engine must have a starter button located at the left of the shift lever, it's a 2 wire that includes a charger system. Will need to use a marine battery rated 12 Volts- 360 CCA-50 Amp/Hour. Other thing, when installing battery first connect the positive terminal, then the negative. When disconnecting, first the negative, then the positive. If you mix the polarity even briefly will ruin the engine charging system. Apply marine grease to both terminals.

Good luck finding the offending missing e'ring piece

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Old 18 February 2008, 09:18   #26
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Nothing will happen if you turn upside down the engine and shake for a couple of seconds
Just before you do, it is a 2-stroke and not going to make a very nasty oily mess when you do this? Most 4-strokes are quie particular about the angle you leave them at...... If it is a 4, probably need to drain the sump first....... Or hows about try the bit you have with a magnet - then you might be able to just go fishing?

Did you suss out the throttle? I see the 15 shares it's block with the 9.9. Is the throttle stopped at the shaft or is it just a very loose cable to the tiller? IF it's stopped at the shaft let me know, as I have a similar story about an old 2- stroke Suzuki.......
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Old 18 February 2008, 10:00   #27
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You can remove the carburator and look inside, as 9D280 says fish with a magnet or tilt the engine down with the removed carb pointing to the fllor to see if the missing piece falls off. I will make sure the missing piece is not inside the manifold chamber before looking some where else.. Happy hunting

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Old 18 February 2008, 12:25   #28
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Did you suss out the throttle? I see the 15 shares it's block with the 9.9. Is the throttle stopped at the shaft or is it just a very loose cable to the tiller? IF it's stopped at the shaft let me know, as I have a similar story about an old 2- stroke Suzuki.......
Not quite sure what this refers to. It's a twist grip throttle with the wire inside a sheath/ guide. twisting the throttle pulls the cable which pulls on some rods and levers.
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Old 18 February 2008, 12:34   #29
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Hola Sinistre 1

About the battery issue, your engine must have a starter button located at the left of the shift lever, it's a 2 wire that includes a charger system. Will need to use a marine battery rated 12 Volts- 360 CCA-50 Amp/Hour. Other thing, when installing battery first connect the positive terminal, then the negative. When disconnecting, first the negative, then the positive. If you mix the polarity even briefly will ruin the engine charging system. Apply marine grease to both terminals.

Happy Boating
Does the battery have to have that amount of amperage available for charging purposes. I already bought a battery (20 amps) and this was dictated by size (I didn't want a large battery). I figured a motorcycle size battery would be fine. I'm not worried about running out of juice but if it is going to negatively affect the charging system. As a side there was no battery attached at all the last three times I used it. Would that have affected the charging system.

Lastly, there is not a starter switch on the left of the lever. There WAS something called a neutral safety switch. It is missing. Looking for a replacement. From what I have been able to gather on the net it is a safety lock out not an actual starter button. I've yet to find an actual starter button. Am I mistaken and this is an actual start button and safety feature.
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Old 18 February 2008, 14:50   #30
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Does the battery have to have that amount of amperage available for charging purposes. I already bought a battery (20 amps) and this was dictated by size (I didn't want a large battery). I figured a motorcycle size battery would be fine. I'm not worried about running out of juice but if it is going to negatively affect the charging system. As a side there was no battery attached at all the last three times I used it. Would that have affected the charging system.

Lastly, there is not a starter switch on the left of the lever. There WAS something called a neutral safety switch. It is missing. Looking for a replacement. From what I have been able to gather on the net it is a safety lock out not an actual starter button. I've yet to find an actual starter button. Am I mistaken and this is an actual start button and safety feature.
You can use any battery as long it's rated 12 Volts, the only difference is that the recommended one (50 Amp/Hr) has a 90 minutes reserve capacity, more than the motorcycle bat. The alternator used is a 5 Amp Noneregulated.

Electric start engines are more for console type sibs, ribs, if you drive seted on the pontoon just pull the rope, if your engine is in good shape will start with the first pull, Personally don`t like things bumping inside my sib, and a batery must be well secured to not bump inside.

On the steering handle you have a quick disconnect lanyarn clip, it's not the starter buttom. In some electric/rope start models the factory recommends to disconect the rectifier if used without a battery to protect the charging system. Have no info about your current model. Maybe you should contact BRP tech department and make a tech inquiry, you can reach them through the net :

Order Questions
Call 805-547-8368 or email support@shopatron.com

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