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Old 07 April 2007, 17:50   #1
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Trailer Repairs

Hi,

Can anyone point me in the way of some online resources for maintaining trailer brakes.

The trailer I need to look at has drum brakes which are cable activated and the wheels have bearing savers.

I think the cable on one side has seized up and just to be on the safe side I'm going to replace both cables. What I really want to know, is it just a case of taking the wheel off, making sure the brakes are off to remove the drum and then unhooking the cable from inside the drum and pulling it out the back. If I can get that far I think I'll be on a winner.

I don't really want to muck about with the brakes themselves as when I tried this many years ago I just ended up not being able to get it back together again and having to get my brother to reasemble them, and he's miles away now. I don't really want to get in to that position again but I would like to learn how its all done. So I can regularly service the brakes.

All the online resources I could find are US sites and talk about hydraulic brakes. If only.

Regards Nick R.
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Old 07 April 2007, 20:20   #2
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Old 07 April 2007, 21:12   #3
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got some cables with a grease nipple halfway along last year and the guy apologised as they were all he had. Been looking for some of them for years. Modern thinking seems to say that grease in the cable causes friction-and I agree it will, but a sight less than a good dose of rust inside does! If you do get any of them be careful not to overpressurise with the grease gun cos the outer will start to deform (oops). And when you fit them make sure the curve goes up in the middle so water does not collect even if it means tying them up with shockcord. Rather think that if the cable has siezed the brake assembly will not be much better as it has been inoperative and there is always the possibilty of the new cable pulling the brake on but the assembly being in such bad shape that the return springs will not pull the shoes off again. Result: a smell of burning, a very hot brake drum and loadsa molten grease flowing out of the bearings followed by ..... Maybe better to get the full job done for peace of mind eh.
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Old 08 April 2007, 18:14   #4
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Havener,

Thanks for that. He's my local guy that I use for parts.

I think I'm going to take a wheel off this week and see what the inside looks like. Then take it from their.
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Old 08 April 2007, 18:21   #5
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Nick,

Trailertek are quite reasonable for repairs if you make a complete hash of it.

Bit tricky if you've immobilised the trailer of course!
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Old 08 April 2007, 18:26   #6
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got some cables with a grease nipple halfway along last year and the guy apologised as they were all he had. Been looking for some of them for years. Modern thinking seems to say that grease in the cable causes friction-and I agree it will, but a sight less than a good dose of rust inside does! If you do get any of them be careful not to overpressurise with the grease gun cos the outer will start to deform (oops). And when you fit them make sure the curve goes up in the middle so water does not collect even if it means tying them up with shockcord. Rather think that if the cable has siezed the brake assembly will not be much better as it has been inoperative and there is always the possibilty of the new cable pulling the brake on but the assembly being in such bad shape that the return springs will not pull the shoes off again. Result: a smell of burning, a very hot brake drum and loadsa molten grease flowing out of the bearings followed by ..... Maybe better to get the full job done for peace of mind eh.
Yea .. think I'll go check for any disk brake threads that have advanced lately This seems to be one area no one has got the answer for yet
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Old 08 April 2007, 19:09   #7
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Nick,

Trailertek are quite reasonable for repairs if you make a complete hash of it.

Bit tricky if you've immobilised the trailer of course!
Mike,

I can see it being a steep learning curve. But if you trailer sail a boat its better to know what you have to work on. I've done bearings before but not with bearing savers. I've done hydraulic brake shoes before and struggled. The boat isn't going out for a few days so nows the time to pull it to bits. If I can't get the drum off easily then I'm going no farther. But it would be nice to look inside and see how it all works. If I totally screw it up then is back on with the drum and a slow drive down to Trailertek.

As it is I don't think the brakes work too well at the moment because one cable is seized solid.

I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 08 April 2007, 21:38   #8
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I've done bearings before but not with bearing savers
if they are the hallmark type of thing the savers dont present a real problem
http://www.wavelengthtraining.co.uk/new_page_2.htm
but dont dent the tube downstream of the plunger cos then the plunger thingie will jam and not put pressure on the grease.
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Old 25 November 2007, 20:31   #9
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Nick

If you want I'll come down and show you how also you can buy a decent trailer maintenance manual if you want from ebay

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Tra.../dp/1899238212
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Old 25 November 2007, 20:33   #10
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Nick

If you want I'll come down and show you how also you can buy a decent trailer maintenance manual if you want from ebay
You got a time machine Stu???? Check out the date mate
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Old 25 November 2007, 20:35   #11
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Hub Flush:
Your 'unique product' looks like a load of hep pipe and fittings?

Are you considering becoming a 'Trade Member'?
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Old 25 November 2007, 20:39   #12
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If only I had a time machine

I presumed he hadn't done it yet as he didn't keep us posted
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Old 25 November 2007, 20:40   #13
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I presumed he hadn't done it yet as he didn't keep us posted
As teenagers would say Watevaaa
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Old 25 November 2007, 20:45   #14
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I presumed he hadn't done it yet as he didn't keep us posted
The Hubster could probably knock you up a 'Time Machine' out of a length of Hep and a handful of fittings.
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Old 25 November 2007, 21:07   #15
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Hub Flush:
Your 'unique product' looks like a load of hep pipe and fittings?

Are you considering becoming a 'Trade Member'?
So unique in fact that my trailer came with what looks like an easier to use system fitted...
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Old 26 November 2007, 00:14   #16
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....What I really want to know, is it just a case of taking the wheel off, making sure the brakes are off to remove the drum and then unhooking the cable from inside the drum and pulling it out the back.
Usually, the cables can be replaced without dismantling the brakes. Release the front end of the cables. Go to the back of the wheel and pull the cable outwards until it comes off the kinda flat tapered bit. One half of these tapered pieces will then lift away to reveal the cable nipple hooked into the actuator. This presumes you service them and grease them regularly.

If the outer sheath is seized the the inner cable so you can't get it to
move.... err, good luck. Bolt cutters anyone?

I've just realised that the word seized doesn't follow the 'I before E except after C' rule.
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