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Old 14 December 2015, 16:18   #11
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Hey mate,

I'm in Lymington and could do it, but not till after the new year.


It's not that hard of a job if your willing to tackle it yourself.
We had a cold room before we renovated in the loft. We used 100mm celotex cut between the rafters, then 30mm on the underside nailed to the rafters. (Process being roof covering, membrane, air gap, 100mm celotex, 30mm celotex then plasterboarded.

We don't have any draughts and it's bloody hot up there.
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Old 14 December 2015, 16:42   #12
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Two different methods depending on if roof has breather membrane or impervious felt
Need to be carefull to use correct method to avoid condensation trap above insulation
http://www.kingspaninsulation.co.uk/...itch-TP10.aspx
http://<br /> <br /> www.kingspanins...oof-Board.aspx
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Old 14 December 2015, 17:03   #13
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Celotex always recommends using a gap of 50mm above. Between breathable felt and the celotex.

Kingspan must be different.
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Old 14 December 2015, 18:01   #14
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Is there actually such a thing? .
Yep, we wanted to not dry line (cover-up) our 100yo local granite walls inside. The HL engineer re-calc'd the place, we had to 'compensate' elsewhere to achieve an overall value for the whole place. Building control need to see this stuff before signing off these days.
I fitted MVHR (the best ECO gizmo bar none IMHO), therefore the place has to be as near to airtight as is possible. Having a draught free house is very satisfying.
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Old 16 December 2015, 16:14   #15
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If the tiles/slates aren't on yet then I'd go Actis/Triso as the simplest approved method of insulating. However I guess your plans might already be approved and show rigid board. Bear in mind the rafters will be considered a 'cold bridge' so you will need a layer on the underside of them too such as thermal backed plasterboard.

Mollers: which make of MVHR have you gone for? It's early days in my research but there seem to be a lot of models out there and I'm contemplating one for our place as part of the refurb.
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Old 16 December 2015, 16:28   #16
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Mollers: which make of MVHR have you gone for? It's early days in my research but there seem to be a lot of models out there and I'm contemplating one for our place as part of the refurb.
This one. Mitsubishi Electric Lossnay - LGH-15RVX-E | eBay

The RRP is in the region of 1500. This is a steal!!
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Old 16 December 2015, 16:52   #17
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Are they suitable for use with open flue heating appliances ie rayburn/logburning stove's
Or is the need for them reduced by the draw from the appliance changing the air?
I'd be cautious of that ebay one 4 pictures of a cardboard box and -1 feedback definitely one to collect and pay on collection!
We've got actis in our present house and are looking at the YBS for the farm slightly thicker & more layers and cheaper but they seem to be the new kid on the block
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Old 16 December 2015, 18:49   #18
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Are they suitable for use with open flue heating appliances ie rayburn/logburning stove's
Not ideal, as the appliances are effectively stealing warm air and 'holes' to outside.
We have an outside air supply to our log burner and an electric aga.

Achieving airtightness is a major undertaking, as is ducting it. No letterbox, cat flap, trickle vents in window frames....
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Old 17 December 2015, 07:26   #19
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This is a steal!!
I think you're right.

Thanks for info tho. Just read the spec and it quotes 'returns BOTH sensible heat and latent heat'. I'm wondering what sensible heat is? Is there a foolish kind as well that it ignores?
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Old 18 December 2015, 03:27   #20
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Downlighters, frightful things. Avoid if poss, if unavoidable, build airtight plasterboard boxes above them, it's a faff.

Otherwise, they're windtunnel outlets in a modern well vented roofspace.

IMPORTANT note to all, replace all halogen downlighter lamps (bulbs) with LEDs today! A sparky friend showed me the evidence of what a halogen downlighter can do in a confined space over time. Think of scorched timber after a bonfire.

Another top tip. Asda LED bulbs came out top in recent tests and they're as cheap as chips right now.
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