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Old 28 August 2009, 06:35   #61
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Precisely! In anything other than a new Land Rover the chassis will thin!!!

Codders will be along soon to refute all negative Land Rover alegations.
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Old 28 August 2009, 07:24   #62
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Also its a hell of a lot quicker with a mig, landrover chassis are thin,rusted a bit!
Now, trying to MIG weld rusty metal is a whole new skill.

If you buy a cheap MIG it needs one essential for non frustrating use - a good steady wire feed mechanism which doesn't slow when you bend the cable/feed. If you're welding in the limited space under a car, you will end up with the gun at awkward angles which will strain the wire feed. Since one of the welder controls is the wire feed speed, if it varies while you're welding it's a pig.

If it's windy the gas WILL blow away but you can use gasless wire in your MIG welder along with the gas so windy conditions can be coped with.

I agree with Doggypaddle that MIG is easier than stick on thin sheet metal especially if welding an edge to a flat surface.
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Old 28 August 2009, 08:00   #63
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Any links to the "right" welder?
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Old 28 August 2009, 08:10   #64
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everything jwalker says its right, not entirely sure about the gasless wire though, i seem to recall you had to use reverse polarity for some wire, meaning if the mig doesnt have that facility you cant really use that wire.
I have a sealey welder, its 160amp and OK for most stuff. The wire feed is a bit flimsy but suprisingly its lasted me 5 years of use.
Its a bugger in the wind like all gas migs and if welding in awkward places you do need to try and keep the cable straightish to avoid wire tangles.

i think the clarke proffesional range are ok as are Cebora, Migatronic are very good but probably expensive.
At the end of the day you get what you pay for. a cheap clarke wont have smoothing chokes or as big capacitors in the power supply and will give a rougher weld than a more expensive model with smooth dc output.

This clarke is quite a nice one to use(friend has one)
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...al-mig-welders

And i have the earlier model of this one.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...iy-mig-welders

Mine was 150 "round the back" as codders says
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Old 28 August 2009, 09:27   #65
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My Clarke is very smooth in use - I have used a Butters and a few high end industrial jobs.

With the right gas and by changing the cheap and nasty torch to a good quality one it makes a hell of a difference - feels like a much more expensive set up in use.
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Old 28 August 2009, 09:29   #66
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Originally Posted by Simon B View Post
Precisely! In anything other than a new Land Rover the chassis will thin!!!

Codders will be along soon to refute all negative Land Rover alegations.
They may be thin but still a lot better than most of the others. My 1986 ex Police 110 chassis is still fine. It's the outriggers that go - mud sits on top of them. It takes a very long time though and a bit of proper cleaning works wonders!!!
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Old 28 August 2009, 09:51   #67
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Originally Posted by doggypaddle View Post
...not entirely sure about the gasless wire though, ..
it works well, promise...

My first machine was a SIP, fairly high end but the wire feed was shit and there was a tendency for the wire to tack close to the nozzle so the feed rollers bunched it up trying to feed it. Used it for lotsa stuff but eventually became frustrated with its limitations and lashed out on a big unit. Night and day but this one will burn skin in a couple of minutes if you're not covered up so even if it's roasting and the sun is shining you gotta be togged up.
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Old 28 August 2009, 10:55   #68
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Yeah..don't listen to me...what would I know about welding anyway? Last welding sets I bought were the thick end of 5K each... what would I know about welding......

Learn to weld...or learn to be a torch holder...your choice....but the amount of people who use a cheap MIG set to work on structural parts of vehicles...eg. the chassis..and just because the weld looks pretty..they think it's good.....but hey, what would I know...you listen to all the amateurs out there.
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...There, that should keep the debate going whilst I piss off to the Beer festival....Have a good weekend folks...
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Old 28 August 2009, 11:24   #69
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Originally Posted by Jono View Post
Yeah..don't listen to me...what would I know about welding anyway? Last welding sets I bought were the thick end of 5K each... what would I know about welding......

Learn to weld...or learn to be a torch holder...your choice....but the amount of people who use a cheap MIG set to work on structural parts of vehicles...eg. the chassis..and just because the weld looks pretty..they think it's good.....but hey, what would I know...you listen to all the amateurs out there.
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...There, that should keep the debate going whilst I piss off to the Beer festival....Have a good weekend folks...

Wind up merchant
I still say car bodywork including landrover chassis is too thin for all but the best welders to weld with a stick and an AC welder.
An inverter welder is a different story, i find my inverter walder nearly as good as a mig for thin stuff.
its true what you say about welding to "MOT standard"A tube of sikaflex will do that
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Old 28 August 2009, 11:31   #70
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Originally Posted by doggypaddle View Post
Wind up merchant
I still say car bodywork including landrover chassis is too thin for all but the best welders to weld with a stick and an AC welder.
An inverter welder is a different story, i find my inverter walder nearly as good as a mig for thin stuff.
its true what you say about welding to "MOT standard"A tube of sikaflex will do that
So who's up for some oxy-acetylene chassis welding, I thought that this was the only way to weld - in the same vein as only amatuers need arc switching face shields!!! Still heard all those arguments years ago by avid or was it rabid rebate plane users when routers strted to become cheaper...it endless

By the wat doggy paddle my exhaust manifold is minus all the junk and a nice plug was machined up for me to fill the hole, thanks for the tip. Am extending the wires on the loom now. Looking for a local exhaust fabricator now.
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