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Old 07 February 2016, 11:27   #21
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I bought a 4.5kg folding galvanised grapnel anchor from ebay (about 15) and attached it to 10 Metres of galvanised 6mm chain (about 30 from eBay) then rope. Used it in sea with a 3.8m sib with no issues. As previous post said - the chain does do most of the work to stop any drag. 10 metres may be overkill but no more hassle having the extra length on board. Get a plastic box and sit at front of boat. Also helps with getting some weigh up front on the Sib.
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Old 07 February 2016, 12:56   #22
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Cheers chris
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Old 08 February 2016, 11:43   #23
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Changing them is as simple as undo the shackle and do it back up again. The grapnel is always on board, connected, ready to go.
I hope you're wiring or zip tying the shackle. I nearly lost a boat by not doing that.

jky
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Old 08 February 2016, 12:41   #24
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Great info
Thank you
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Old 08 February 2016, 13:48   #25
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I have been using INOX Bruce 6 weeks every day in Greece (Med Sea)
3kg 5m of chain. Works great for my 5,4 RIB

I have spare 1,5 INOX Bruce also and used it from sometimes - keeps very good


After the season still looks like new one. Works on sand and stones.
I'm curious about this Cooper's video. Sometimes I had a problem to pull back anchor. Can I use the same trick on Bruce ?
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Old 08 February 2016, 13:59   #26
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Matt
Many thanks for your info
Phil
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Old 08 February 2016, 14:07   #27
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After the season still looks like new one. Works on sand and stones.
I'm curious about this Cooper's video. Sometimes I had a problem to pull back anchor. Can I use the same trick on Bruce ?
Google images - -Tripping line
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Old 08 February 2016, 14:09   #28
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Yes MatfromPoland the same method of 'tripping' will work on most anchors. Beware its not recommended if you are leaving the boat anchored as you are relying on the strength of a zip tie. If you need to you can separately connect a think line and float (fender would do) and motor forward and lift using thin line.
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Old 08 February 2016, 15:26   #29
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so presumably they actually work OK even with limited scope?
Oh not they are notorious for dragging.
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I think you are doing it wrong!
And your evidence for that would be? The difference may be I want to hang in a very specific spot not 20m further back where the hook eventually grabs and stops me.
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so whats your point for typical SIB use in the UK? Are you on the marketing team for Cooper? I don't think I've suggested there is anything wrong with them - I'm just wondering why it would be preferable to the "norm".
And you've been told by me and others what the perceived benefits are. The fact you don't feel those are sufficiently beneficial for you is your choice.

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are you arguing with yourself? Even with the cooper the anchor might not rust but the chain is still metal (so if worn through the galv will do).
Erm... ...you've lost me. Firstly you don't HAVE to use a chain with a cooper you can increase scope to 1:7, secondly if you need to replace your chain you can, thirdly so if 1 part on your boat can't be made rust proof - no part should be?
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Unlike you to take the "I've never seen it, so it can't be true" stance :-P
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where did I do that?
Around here:
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I've never seen one in person which suggests to me part of the reason there is no negative feedback is that there aren't that many out there. I'm not saying they are bad I just not sure they are better...
How would you want convinced they are better - or are you just not convincible there is anything wrong with what you have?
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A kilo or two lighter anchor isn't going to make much difference on a SIB which is 30 cm above the water (v's a hardboat 1m+ freeboard) especially is when its in the water (a) most of the weight is chain (b) a significant proportion of the weight is reduced by the displacement of the water.
But a SIB needs launching. Anchor 3kg mass at the front of a 3m rib with transom wheels requires extra effort. That may be an advantage when trying to get on the plane? Or it may just mean more work for the engine. On the basis that The Gurnard sets the bar for SIBbing - thats an extra 6 cans of the black stuff he could be carrying.

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The OP is not looking to anchor a kayak. He has a nice stable SIB, with an engine. Don't confuse the best compromise kayak anchor with the best compromise SIB anchor.
I'm not sure I see the basis of boat stability for my choice of anchor. Lack of 4inch hatch to chuck it in maybe. I absolutely know what he's anchoring. But if he posted "What size anchor do I need" then the RN Jury would say anything from 1.5kg to 5kg to as big as you can afford/carry. That makes it tricky to compare. You can buy a grapnel specifically marketed for kayaks which means you can compare.

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?? My anchors sit on top of the chain which sits on top of the rope no padding needed.
So when lifting anchor its lifted and put neat instantly. And it never shifts when underway in a decent chop...
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Old 09 February 2016, 11:12   #30
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Yes MatfromPoland the same method of 'tripping' will work on most anchors. Beware its not recommended if you are leaving the boat anchored as you are relying on the strength of a zip tie. If you need to you can separately connect a think line and float (fender would do) and motor forward and lift using thin line.
You have to remember that this an emergency type thing. In practice, you should be releasing the anchor normally (motor forward just past the anchor and lift.) The breakaway is just in case the hook gets stuck.

Use the big (like 1/2" across) zip ties, or a wrap or two or three of safety wire. It should take decent amount force to break the chain loose from the anchor shaft. If it doesn't, you're likely to find it coming loose when you want it to stay set (which could, depending on the circumstances, be anywhere from annoying to embarrassing to dangerous.)

My $.02 (.0177 Euro);

jky
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