the start of hugh......going for a new boat and will build it out myself...gulp - Page 11

roycruse · 21 March 2006, 09:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

Rivets are ok when fitting sheet materials together but most of my fittings are going into fibreglass which has an inch of marine ply behind it.

Riveting on the Aframe would be novel!!

I prefer to use a4 stainless bolts with countersunk or cheese head allen key drive for the smaller ones as they look better. i love my washers and nylon insert nuts for knowing it is done up just right!

only reason i mentioned it was that all my protex catches and hinges are rivited on to the jockey seats - but the jockey seats in a Ribcraft are fibreglass - no plywood...

Hugh Jardon · 21 March 2006, 10:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by roycruse

only reason i mentioned it was that all my protex catches and hinges are rivited on to the jockey seats - but the jockey seats in a Ribcraft are fibreglass - no plywood...

problem with rivets is you have to have the right size otherwise it wont fit properly or could come loose or could stress the fibreglass. It is ok for Ribcraft as they do loads of these to assemble in a standard way and have all the correct sizes, for me Machine screws are probably the best solution.

Hugh Jardon · 22 March 2006, 13:41

andy

here are a couple of pics of the custom osprey patchs i made up and those kind guys at ribcraft fitted for me, all done with my fair hand and a scalpal

also a pic of the bow rope holder thingy watsit doobury

Dino · 22 March 2006, 15:20

Hugh
Twin Aerials?

What bung did you end up fitting?mine leaks and i'm toying with siliconing it up for the season and cleaning it off when she comes out of the ater in oct.

Hugh Jardon · 22 March 2006, 15:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dino

Hugh
Twin Aerials?

What bung did you end up fitting?mine leaks and i'm toying with siliconing it up for the season and cleaning it off when she comes out of the ater in oct.

oh yes twin aerials, one is a backup spare for safety !

the transom bung i fitted is identified in a pic below. it is a nice stainless steel item that looks well made and much better than the cheap items you normally get at chandlers that i have seen, i got it from ribcraft when i was there

Hugh Jardon · 22 March 2006, 16:20

pics of the bung assembly if it helps, call ribcraft and get one from there, is very nice quality

Dino · 22 March 2006, 16:24

It does look a nice bit of kit,bet it was expensive in stainless too.I have yet to hear of a bung that doesn't leak on a rib left on a mooring though,hence the drastic step of glooping it up

Hugh Jardon · 22 March 2006, 16:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dino

It does look a nice bit of kit,bet it was expensive in stainless too.I have yet to hear of a bung that doesn't leak on a rib left on a mooring though,hence the drastic step of glooping it up

not sure on the price as i got it as part of a whole package from ribcraft......toobs and elephant trunks and various bits and bobs

but all the others i have seen are naf in comparison, it has a nice quality rubber seal so should work well. personally i would not trust those plastic items

ADS · 22 March 2006, 16:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

i would not trust those plastic items

True, you may have a flash stainless item, but no matter which bung you own they are all as bad as each other when it comes to forgetting it

Must be one of those new flooding hull vipermax's

Hugh Jardon · 22 March 2006, 18:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADS

True, you may have a flash stainless item, but no matter which bung you own they are all as bad as each other when it comes to forgetting it

Must be one of those new flooding hull vipermax's

as it is dry as a bone in there hopefully it will continue to be so wont need to open it up much

then wont forget to put it in....famous last words i know!

roycruse · 22 March 2006, 20:02

when I finally got my stuck bung undone - it was dry in there too and that was after 50 hours of boat use. If you are lucky you will end up only checking it once a year.

Some people always seem to get unexplained water in the inner hull - my old humber didnt even attempt to keep it dry - and water free flowed though it all the time as it was permanently open.

Jeff Pike · 23 March 2006, 17:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by roycruse

Some people always seem to get unexplained water in the inner hull - my old humber didnt even attempt to keep it dry - and water free flowed though it all the time as it was permanently open.

Are you sure that wasn't a drain for the anchor locker at the front? My anchor locker drains into the rear bilge area. Just open the drain bung, drain the water into the bilge & pump overboard.

Jeff

roycruse · 23 March 2006, 18:06

yes - you could be right - but there was no other drain for the hull - and there always seemed more water than could possibly just be stored in a hose from bow to stern so I assumed it was completely open.

Jeff Pike · 23 March 2006, 20:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by roycruse

yes - you could be right - but there was no other drain for the hull - and there always seemed more water than could possibly just be stored in a hose from bow to stern so I assumed it was completely open.

I've got no hull drain either. Told it was sealed for integrety & warned about cutting holes to get to the outer hull for a through hull transponder. Is amazing how much water drains off a rope & chain though! Manual says it the anchor locker drain plug - hope so or I've got a very leaky boat.

Jeff

Hugh Jardon · 23 March 2006, 22:28

i think i may be lucky in that i can fit a drain in the anchor locker to come out onto the deck.......is that an ok idea to do?

for my console i am going to fit two plastic transom drain points as someone pointed out a week or two ago would be a good idea

i dunno, all these holes haha

Dino · 24 March 2006, 10:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

i think i may be lucky in that i can fit a drain in the anchor locker to come out onto the deck.......is that an ok idea to do?

for my console i am going to fit two plastic transom drain points as someone pointed out a week or two ago would be a good idea

i dunno, all these holes haha

I think i would leave it sealed to protect the integrity of it from water,if you were unlucky enough for a big stuff to get into the console it may help,but,its more likely that any water swilling around on deck would definitely get in through drains.

roycruse · 24 March 2006, 11:23

I would agree - the amount of water that does get inside a console is usually only a very small amount - its a tiny puddle rather than a qty that will drain through a hole - if you have drainage holes i think they will let more water in than they would let out - same goes for your anchor locker - with a good hatch - very little water will get in there - mine is still dry.

I just dry the inside of my console with a towel once a month, the water is so small an amount that its not worth worrying about - only downside to having it there is that it does raise the humidity inside the console - which results in condensation in gauges etc...

DGR · 24 March 2006, 12:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by roycruse

I would agree - the amount of water that does get inside a console is usually only a very small amount - its a tiny puddle rather than a qty that will drain through a hole - if you have drainage holes i think they will let more water in than they would let out - same goes for your anchor locker - with a good hatch - very little water will get in there - mine is still dry.

I just dry the inside of my console with a towel once a month, the water is so small an amount that its not worth worrying about - only downside to having it there is that it does raise the humidity inside the console - which results in condensation in gauges etc...

Mine was like that for the first year - but once the anchor locker starts getting some use, it does start to collect water (mostly off the ropes and chains when you use them). Once it starts to collect - there is always water in there.

And my console was quite good at keeping dry - until the MCA required me to 'vent' it - and it now collects quite considerable amounts of water. I'm not sure how its getting in, but over a week on the mooring it can collect a couple of inches. It seems to be a lot for condensation - so I assume that a combination of rain and wind are getting through the vent. This year I'm going to put a cover over the console to keep it dry.

D...

Hugh Jardon · 24 March 2006, 18:21

i was thinking of getting one of those bar heaters for inside the console to keep condensation at zero. and keep everything nice and dry and slightly warmed

i will wait and see if the anchor locker gathers water before i start drilling holes everywhere

also i was thinking of putting breathers for the console but mounting them on the flat cosole surface underneath where it juts out....that should work i think

does anyone know if the console must be ventelated, it has batteries, fuel tank under floor and electrics in that area?

Dino · 24 March 2006, 18:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hugh Jardon

i was thinking of getting one of those bar heaters for inside the console to keep condensation at zero. and keep everything nice and dry and slightly warmed

i will wait and see if the anchor locker gathers water before i start drilling holes everywhere

also i was thinking of putting breathers for the console but mounting them on the flat cosole surface underneath where it juts out....that should work i think

does anyone know if the console must be ventelated, it has batteries, fuel tank under floor and electrics in that area?

Hugh
I think you are dangerously close to overkill,step back,step away,it sounds like you've finished it!

Your tank is already ventilated by the breather and i really wouldn't vent it any further.If you are worried then leave the console hatch open when you store her on the trailer.Obviously this is a risk if it's not stored at home but then my hatch doesn't lock either.Oh no,thats given you another idea hasn't it