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Old 27 May 2011, 04:44   #1
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Searider rebuild project

Searider project to bring life back to an old boat built in 1986 by my estimation.

The boat has been owned the sailing club I work for on more than one occasion, being sold to members and bought back on more than one occasion (including for a whole pound on one occasion!) with various different engines and paint jobs over the years.

The transom is totally rotted out and needs replacing and the deck needs some attention with some rot around the console fittings and at least 3 different coats of paint on the inside and a nice red coat on the outside to smarten up.

Bit of work to do here!

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Old 27 May 2011, 04:51   #2
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After removing the wood that had been glued to the floor to sit the console on I found the deck was a bit softer than first thought.

Out it comes then. Best order a bit more ply and resin supply!

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Old 27 May 2011, 05:01   #3
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Next for the transom.

A bit of careful grinding to take out the inside laminate and the a bit of work with a chisel and hammer to remove therotten ply. It was far more rotten than I thought. It came off in bit that looked just like chocolate flakes in the bottom of the boat! there were tiny bits of dry wood remaining at the very bottom and corners of the transom but the rest was just completely wet and rotten

The plan is to build a new timber laminate using the inside face I cut off as a template and the epoxy this to the outside face left in place. Then I'll work out how to fit the deck.

99% certain at this point I'm going to block the hull off. Why replace rotten wood and then have water sloshing around under the deck getting it wet again.
Also the boats are used as safety boats on a 60 acre lake so spend a lit of time going on and off the plane getting to incidents so we burn a lot of fuel just off loading water ballast all the time.

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Old 27 May 2011, 05:38   #4
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looks a great rebuild Hamster.

Looking forward to seeing the build.
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Old 27 May 2011, 08:31   #5
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great work, ive just done something very similar on my 4metre at present
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Old 28 May 2011, 07:44   #6
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Interesting to see under the deck as when I look up inside my hull you can see 2 boxes taking up room ether side, I think it is so it takes on less water!
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Old 29 May 2011, 02:00   #7
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Interesting to see under the deck as when I look up inside my hull you can see 2 boxes taking up room ether side, I think it is so it takes on less water!
Yes, it's to limit the amount of ballast water it takes on at the stern. I suspect you'd have problems shipping water over the transom if you had a heavy engine on there and the flooding hull open without the boxes being present.
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Old 29 May 2011, 17:36   #8
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Yes the tanks at the back fitted to the underside of the deck mean theres still some buoyancy at the stern to support the weight of the engine without the stern sitting too low in the water. I've still got the remains of the deck at work so I'll post some pictures of the underside next week so you can see the size of the tanks.

Next job after stripping out the rotten wood was to clean up the inside face of the transom and fill in all the holes so I have something solid to laminate the new wood on to.

All the holes in the transom suggest the boat has had at least 4 different engines on it over the years as well as various other fittings that have been removed leaving holes that have just been filled with a bit of silicone. The transom has more holes in it than a used pub dart board, no wonder the wood was so rotten. When I held a straight edge across the width of the transom before taking it out the middle had bowed by around 35mm from the weight of the engine hanging on it. I'm surprised it hadn't fallen off.

Holes were taped over and then filled with glass body filler. The outside will be flow coated later to make it look better and the inside laminated to the ply to give strength.

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Old 29 May 2011, 18:05   #9
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Now we have a flattish surface to work too it's time to make the new ply laminate

The old inside face cut out carefully to be preserved for future use was used to make up a cardboard template to mark out the shape for the new wood laminate. I decided as I wasn't going to be flooding the hull anymore then I'd take the ply down the full height of the transom rather than just down to deck level as it was before in order to give more rigidity.

Once the I had a template mk3 that was a good fit I marked out the ply and set loose with a jigsaw and circular saw.

I cut out the new transom from a sheet of 3/4" marine ply and another from 1/2" ply which I then laminated together using epoxy and two layers of 300gsm chopped strand Matt with lots of g clamps and 8 large bolts to hold it all together while it set.

The new 1 1/4" of ply should give a lot more strength than the 3/4" that was in there before.

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Old 29 May 2011, 19:05   #10
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Once the epoxy is set the new transom is sanded and shaped to fit around the edges and shape the bottom edge to match the hull/transom angle to ensure a tight fit and minimum gaps around to fill later.

Next job before gluing everything in is to make up the new deck.

Again cardboard is used to make a full size template to use to cut the ply. I had a box which a 30hp yamaha for another rib was delivered in a few weeks previously that was big enough when I cut it open to make template for the whole deck in one piece.
When I cut out the old deck I left 2 to 3 inches of it in place around the edge to give me a good surface to fix the new deck down to. This made cutting the template easy to do as u just lined up one side along the edge of the new position and ran a Stanley knife around the other side after pushing it into the edge where the ply will sit.
The new deck was then cut from 1/2" marine ply and then trimmed and sanded to fit. Unfortunately an 8' sheet isn't quite long enough for the whole deck so it had to be done in two pieces.

Once sanded to fit snuggly the deck was turned over and a coat of epoxy applied to help protect from any water that may get below deck. At the same time 6 x m10 bolts were fitted through the deck to attach the console to. The heads of the bolts were set in epoxy to hold them in place and hopefully prevent any water leaking through these fittings from above the deck.

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