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Old 29 May 2011, 19:18   #11
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wow thats going to look great when its finished i now know where to come if my transom is shot. :-)
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Old 29 May 2011, 19:48   #12
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After epoxying the deck and checking everything fits I decided to cut the deck into three pieces so it fits the fore and aft curve of the hull better with out straining the wood permanently.

Before putting the deck and new transom in I decide to investigate a small damp patch in the bottom of the hull around the keel strengthening tube structure. As soon as I go near it with a grinder floods of water come out followed by gravel and sand that has been dredged up when the boat has been beached so many times that the front of the keel has been ground away leaving a 10 inch hole that has been filled in at some point, trapping all the water and gravel in there.

I ended up grinding the whole of the keel structure away to get all the damp foam out of there which now left me with nothing providing any strength or rigidity along the length of the hull apart from the deck.

To over come this I decide to make up some stingers and cross strengthening to support the deck below the console and strengthen the hull.

I made this from 3/4 inch ply and laminate it into the hull using epoxy and 300gsm can and woven roving. This should give me something to screw the deck down to as well as gluing it in.

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Old 29 May 2011, 20:01   #13
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At the same time I make up the walls for well I'm putting in at the stern for the bilge pump and auto drain device. Also I put in a hole for a screw bung to drain any water that gets under the deck into the well.

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Old 30 May 2011, 06:39   #14
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great work
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Old 30 May 2011, 14:31   #15
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Next job is gluing the transom in.

In order to get the old outside face of the transom to come flat and straight again I decided that when I glued it all together everything would need pulling into place while the epoxy set. To do this I used a dozen m8 bolts holding stainless area on either side and lots of G clamps to hold everything in place. I predrilled the ply and outside face to get everything ready before finally mixing lots of epoxy, putting it all together and crossing my fingers that all would go to plan!

After it had all gone off I removed all the clamps and bolts and plates and all stayed stuck where I wanted it too! The holes that the fixing bolts had been through were then filled with epoxy to give a nice flat surface to carry on working with and the corners around the transom/hull filleted to get rid of any voids where water could hid and roy things of it got in.

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Old 30 May 2011, 16:10   #16
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Next job was to fit the new deck.

After a few hours removing old paint from around the inside areas and preparing the 3" surround that remained of the old deck everything was ready for gluing down. I decided to put the deck down in three sections to cope with the fore and aft curve it has and also to make it easier rather than one big piece.

I then glued the deck down with lots of epoxy and screwed it dorm the the new stringers and well surround. I left it over night with 15 bags of cement and gravel holding it all in place hoping it would go off and hold in place.

The next morning all had gone to plan. Before laminating over the new deck I filled any gaps with epoxy filler and then sanded off any traces of epoxy from all timber surfaces so that the polyester resin and gelcoat would stick.

I then set about laminating over the entire deck and transom before gel and flowcoat could be applied.
All joints and corners got a 9" layer of 300g csm followed by 300g woven cloth. The whole lot then got a layer of 300g csm followed by 450g woven cloth. On the transom I took this over the top and 6" down the outside and around the sides to remake the flanges to attach the tubes on to.

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Old 14 June 2011, 03:10   #17
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Here's the tanks that live under the deck towards the back of the boat to provide buoyancy at the stern to support the weight if the engine etc.

They are bigger than I thought they'd be so must provide a fair amount of buoyancy.

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Old 14 June 2011, 03:21   #18
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After the deck and transom are glassed in I spent a few hours with the grinder and sander getting everything nice and smooth ready for top coating, paying particular attention to any corners and areas of high wear.

I then applied a couple of coats of orange gel followed by a final coat of flowcoat.

Once that had gone off properly I applied a couple of coats of grey gelcoat with nonslip additive followed by a coat of flowcoat, again with non slip added.

I applied all coats with a brush and then rolled out to get a smooth finish as I couldn't get it on as thick as I wanted with just a roller. Just as the grey was about to go off and was tacky I went over it with a wooly roller to give a stipled surface to it to give more grip under foot.

I also applied gel and flowcoat to the outside of the transom which will be sanded and polished later.

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Old 14 June 2011, 03:29   #19
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Final finish to the inside. It all looks as good as I wanted it to apart from the grey deck, seems I didn't roll it at quite the right time to get the stippled effect I wanted. There's about a 10 second gap to do it between it not having gone off and just running flat again to it going off and being to stiff to push a roller through it.

It's still satisfactory though and should provide plenty of grip under foot.

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Old 14 June 2011, 03:38   #20
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After a few hours sanding and polishing the transom it time to start pitting it all back together.

First i reattached the tubes and then set about refitting the engine. And other fittings to the transom.

I decided to reuse the 3mm stainless reinforcing plate I'd had made previously to support the old transom just to provide additional support.

Instead of a drain trunk I'm using a cup and ball type device which works automatically rather than rely on people remembering to pull the trunk up and not leave the boat to flood when left on it's mooring.

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