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Old 15 March 2008, 13:45   #31
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Didn't get a great deal done today, it's been p***ing down all day and had to do battle with another 10,000 screws

I did get the tubes off though, and the grp moulding that the tubes sit on, so the rest of the deck is now ready to come off. Thats going to be the biggest challenge so far, all the screws are hidden under the Treadmaster which is stuck on good and proper. Looks like I'm going to have to use a crowbar etc to break up the deck piece by piece and get the screws out after

I knocked up a frame out of some angle iron and timber to support the tubes evenly while I forklifted them off. Worked really well and much easier than trying to organise 10 guys to try and manually lift them.

At least with the tubes now off the boat it's a heck of a lot easier to work on!
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Old 15 March 2008, 14:36   #32
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Have you tryed a heat gun on the treadmaster. Mine peled off OK.
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Old 15 March 2008, 14:46   #33
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Country: UK - Channel Islands
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Have you tryed a heat gun on the treadmaster. Mine peled off OK.
Might give that a go actually, is it a slow process to get enough heat on it?
I could maybe carefully use a propane torch? at least on there areas NOT near the fuel tanks
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Old 15 March 2008, 15:02   #34
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Might give that a go actually, is it a slow process to get enough heat on it?
I could maybe carefully use a propane torch? at least on there areas NOT near the fuel tanks
Not a slow process for me as the sun had already warmed the thing up. However, I suggest generally warming up say 1 square ft. at a time then move the gun in close to get a small area really hot. Best of luck.
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Old 22 March 2008, 13:08   #35
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Pics

Hi Everyone...

Here some pics of the arctic that we'll convert to an inboard diesel. As far as I can see on Martini's pics, the engine will be put in stead of the aft tank with a shaft to the stern.
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Old 22 March 2008, 15:09   #36
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Hi Everyone...

Here some pics of the arctic that we'll convert to an inboard diesel. As far as I can see on Martini's pics, the engine will be put in stead of the aft tank with a shaft to the stern.
Twister, I don't think you will fit an inboard between the 2 main stringers that run the entire length of the boat, from notes I have in front of me now, I work out there is 550mm in between them. It would take a braver man than I to chop them out! Good luck
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Old 23 March 2008, 09:40   #37
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Hi, As I look at the pics I think it would be easier to get the tank out and chop the two stringers there, then chop the stringers aft and removing the last part of the deck. But this is only what I think. We will start in a week or two and then we will see what's best. I think it's an advantage to have the engine in the middle of the boat here on the North Sea with its waves.
Good luck to you and I will inform you.


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Old 27 March 2008, 19:36   #38
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Not much of visual interest happened over the easter holiday but I have reached the turning point where it's now not all about tearing apart!

Saturday was spent removing the A-frame and rest of the deck which came off a lot quicker than I thought.

Sunday was all about removing the couple of hundred screws that were left behind in the deck. Tip for anyone in a similar situation - rather than scraping out the slots in the screw heads and trying to get a screwdiver to get a purchase on it, I used a snap on bolt extractor, basically a socket with left hand spiral flutes inside which grip the head of a screw as well as a bolt. In combination with a cordless drill this job only took a day as well.

Monday I cut out a slightly damaged/rotten support in the floor near the transom. This provided a connection to the bottom half of the aluminium transom plate (see pic 1). I then made a stainless angle support (pic 2) which now bolts right thru the 4 main stringers in the hull (pics 3+4), hopefully andding a bit more strength to the transom.
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Old 27 March 2008, 20:20   #39
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Looking good. Boy, have you got a lot of sanding/grinding to do to get back to a good surface. Is the bilge sump below that area?
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Old 28 March 2008, 16:05   #40
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Looking good. Boy, have you got a lot of sanding/grinding to do to get back to a good surface. Is the bilge sump below that area?
Looks worse than it is. I think behind the aluminium transom plate was back-filled with resin or similar to fill the gap. It seems to want to come off quite easily.

All the water inside the hull drains into the centre section at the back where I will be fitting a bilge pump.

Someone was telling me today about a problem they had with one of these boats sitting very low in the water. This was in 1991 around the time of Gulf War 1. They couldn't figure it out and eventually pulled it out of the water and found bullet holes in the hull!!

Checked mine and couldn't find any
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