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Old 09 August 2008, 17:58   #91
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Made a start on the a frame today, I had to buy a pipe bender specifically for this job as we dont have one at work but it perfomed extremely well for the price.

All in it cost me around 1500 but it gives perfect bends with no flattening of the tube etc, most quality bending machines I've seen are double this price. The pump is attached to an airline for power so theres no manual labour involved (always a good thing in my book).
Heres a link



Last pic is of the horizontal hoop that wraps round the motors. I thought I'd have a go at incorporating a curve between the bends since I had the machinary and it worked out very well I thought. Fits round the back of the cowlings quite snugly and looks fairly trick.
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Old 10 August 2008, 04:05   #92
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Hi

Can't see the link, what diameter /wall thickness will it bend ?

Jim
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Old 10 August 2008, 06:35   #93
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1500 or 150 quid,,,,,,
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Old 10 August 2008, 18:04   #94
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Sorry try again:
http://www.mittlerbros.com/tube_bender_90_hydraulic.htm



Got the price wrong its about 2000 USD for the ram, air powered pump and a set of shoes the size of your choice. You get a free instruction video which is probably great if you got a betamax or whatever it is they use over there

I tried bending 2" od 2mm wall but it wrinkled up on the inside of the bend so I used 3mm. According to the manufacturer its not supposed to be able to bend 3mm stainless but it did no problem.

Few pics below of the a frame starting to take shape
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Old 11 August 2008, 09:14   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martini View Post
Sorry try again:
http://www.mittlerbros.com/tube_bender_90_hydraulic.htm



Got the price wrong its about 2000 USD for the ram, air powered pump and a set of shoes the size of your choice. You get a free instruction video which is probably great if you got a betamax or whatever it is they use over there

I tried bending 2" od 2mm wall but it wrinkled up on the inside of the bend so I used 3mm. According to the manufacturer its not supposed to be able to bend 3mm stainless but it did no problem.

Few pics below of the a frame starting to take shape
In photo three it looks like there isn't a lot of "meat" in the transom between the deck drain and the cut out for the engine? Looking a the photos of the deck it seems that there are no knees up to the top of the transom either?

Probably be ok but just curious as it's hard to tell from just a photo?
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 11 August 2008, 09:24   #96
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Originally Posted by Cookee View Post
In photo three it looks like there isn't a lot of "meat" in the transom between the deck drain and the cut out for the engine? Looking a the photos of the deck it seems that there are no knees up to the top of the transom either?

Probably be ok but just curious as it's hard to tell from just a photo?
Cookee, does post 38 alay your fears??
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Old 11 August 2008, 11:30   #97
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It can be slung out the back of an aircraft, that's good enough for me
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Old 12 August 2008, 08:59   #98
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Cookee, does post 38 alay your fears??
I take the photos in post 84 are before refitting those items then?

Martini - I take it you haven't cut the transom down from original at all? Are those strengthening pieces in post 38 yours or original items?

Just curious that's all! Nice rigging by the way!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 12 August 2008, 14:23   #99
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Cookee- The stainless angle in post 38 is something I made to replace a piece of timber that did a similar thing. It was a bit rotten and the wrong height as I've slightly changed the deck height at that point. Also with it being bolted into the 4 main stringers under should give a bit of extra strength.

Re the aluminium plate that sits on top of the deck and against the inside of the transom, I will have to unbolt the motors and refit that at some point but theres access holes under the plate for getting to cables etc which is why I left it out for now.

The transom cut out is all original but when you look at the back of the boat in its entirety ie. transom, stringers, knees etc. you can see that all the strength comes from nearer the centre of the boat. The outer parts of the transom don't really do much except hold the tubes in place and keep out the water. The fact that theres not much meat between the bailers and the cut out I dont think makes a lot of difference!

Hope that answers your question!
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Old 12 August 2008, 16:48   #100
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Shame you didn't have that pipe bender 6 months ago..... I could have commissioned you to make my A-frame for me instead of KC in St Lawrence.
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