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Old 27 September 2014, 13:53   #1
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Butty's new slow build

Having sold my RIB last March i have very much missed it over the summer and have been toying with what to buy.

The last boat was a 7 meter Coastline (narrow) with Cummins Mercruiser 2.0litre QSD 150hp stern drive.

I very much liked the hull and being designed for the solent chop it works very well for me and the engine was a great unit as well, quiet with no turbo lag at all and with the smartcraft instruments system you get a load of info from the engine.

The length is right for me so am going 7 meter again, but with less in the boat this time, had 4 single jockey pods before with a removable rear bench seat.

This time i am going with just 2 jockey seats and a removable rear bench. just want a bit more room to move around.

I am waiting on a hull to be made for me but have started gathering the parts i need and have taken delivery of the engine, another Cummins Mercruiser QSD 2.0 lt 170hp with DTS as well as the jockey seats and the console. so i have started the fit out of these units.

I will keep the post coming as to the progress.
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Old 27 September 2014, 13:55   #2
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console

some front (or rear) views of the console...
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Old 27 September 2014, 14:11   #3
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rear bench, bathing platfrom and teak deck

this is the part built rear bench seat and lid that i have made, as well as the bathing platfrom i made.

The teak deck is a bit fake, its Iroco which is about 1/3 of the price of teak. The wood is bonded onto a singe layer of glass (csm) and the caulking is now applied, grey to match the tubes. The deck is then bonded onto the bathing platfrom top. It is a pretty easy way of making a teal deck.....
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Old 27 September 2014, 14:18   #4
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electronics

The reason i have used old Northstar gear is i have a Friend that works for Navico, Uk distributor, and its all legacy products so i got them really really cheap and they are designed to work with the smartcraft gear so i found an interface box to link the smartcraft network to the Plotter.

I have some thru hull transducers, one depth/sonar and a paddle wheel so i can get all sorts of info up on the plotter, well thats the idea....

I have the basic Fusion stereo with bluetooth interface.

The small 'glove box' houses the battery master switch, a 12 volt socket and a small red LED light, the same as the ones around the base of the console which are linked to the Nav lights...

Any questions or comments i would be please to hear, the amount of hours i have spent on the console fit out are unbelievable, i would not like to be paying to have it done!!!!!!
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Old 27 September 2014, 14:20   #5
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rear bench seat

rear bench seat.... didnt upload last time!
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Old 27 September 2014, 16:11   #6
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If I had the time and space I'd love to build a RIB. Your wiring looks nice and tidy.

How was the hull designed for the Solent chop then ? What made it suitable ?
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Old 27 September 2014, 16:28   #7
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As far as the design goes, from the limited knowledge I have and the understanding. The design was kept quite narrow as there is a length to width ratio with power boat design, only two spray rails each side and slightly deeper v up front makes better ride quality with a short sharp chop.... This is only what I have been told so could be completely wrong....
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Old 27 September 2014, 17:35   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butty View Post

The small 'glove box' houses the battery master switch, a 12 volt socket and a small red LED light, the same as the ones around the base of the console which are linked to the Nav lights...
I'd put any deck lighting on a seperate switch. It still messes with night vision however dim it is.
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Any questions or comments i would be please to hear, the amount of hours i have spent on the console fit out are unbelievable, i would not like to be paying to have it done!!!!!!
Mine was the same-it took far far longer than I thought. It's worth doing it while it's out of the boat though. So much easier.
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Old 27 September 2014, 18:19   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butty View Post
The reason i have used old Northstar gear is i have a Friend that works for Navico, Uk distributor, and its all legacy products so i got them really really cheap and they are designed to work with the smartcraft gear so i found an interface box to link the smartcraft network to the Plotter.

I have some thru hull transducers, one depth/sonar and a paddle wheel so i can get all sorts of info up on the plotter, well thats the idea....
Looking good. Keep 'em coming, however slowly, coz we all like a build thread!

Can I ask where you sourced the interface box that links your smart craft network to the plotter.

Also, forgive my ignorance, but if the engine info is displayed on the smart craft gauges, what's the benefit of having the same info available for display on the plotter too?
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Old 27 September 2014, 19:03   #10
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Hi, I like the console, do you have a picture of it from the front.
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Old 27 September 2014, 19:27   #11
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Also, forgive my ignorance, but if the engine info is displayed on the smart craft gauges, what's the benefit of having the same info available for display on the plotter too?
It's bigger and you can read it at speed
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Old 27 September 2014, 19:38   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
I'd put any deck lighting on a seperate switch. It still messes with night vision however dim it is.
Mine was the same-it took far far longer than I thought. It's worth doing it while it's out of the boat though. So much easier.
I find Red deck lighting works for me.....does the job and keeps your night vision pretty well ...if it's good enough for our Nuclear Subs
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Old 27 September 2014, 20:27   #13
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I find Red deck lighting works for me.....does the job and keeps your night vision pretty well ...if it's good enough for our Nuclear Subs
Mine's red too, but I can still see better without it turned on
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Old 27 September 2014, 20:54   #14
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It's bigger and you can read it at speed
Okey dokey, I'll buy that!

Just to pursue the point a tad further, of all the info available via the smart gauges, which info do you regard as the most important to display LARGE?
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Old 28 September 2014, 06:37   #15
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I will take some pictures from the front and post them later.

The interface box for the plotter was sourced on ebay.

The reason I like to link to,the plotter is you can split the screen on the plotter and have half chart and half engine info and I don't have to fit all the extra gauges on the console so it looks cleaner.

In the engine package you get the main tacho, oil pressure, coolant temp, trim, and another one. I didn't want to fit all of them as I think it would look really busy... So just fitted the tacho which has digital display that reads all the info on if you scroll through...
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Old 28 September 2014, 14:59   #16
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Pictures for Short Fuse. Front view of console
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Old 28 September 2014, 15:04   #17
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Pictures for Short Fuse. Front view of console

Cheers butty, that's a really good looking console!
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Old 04 October 2014, 16:22   #18
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The engine is in a full width engine box and as the boat is slightly wider than i thought the engine sits between the stringers rather than over the top of them, this means there is enough room to have a solid shelf either side, this can be used to:

A. mount the batteries, 1 either side with a split charge relay.

B. bolt/screw a storage box down to for spare oil and engine spare/tool kit.

this means the battery, isolator switch and a few other things can be moved from the console, so i made a start on that and also i didnt want the Auto Bilge pump switches on the console as im trying to keep it clean and clutter free, so i decided that can be mounted in the engine box next to the battery switch, so these have been fitted to waterproof junction boxes.

I have also made some glass brackets for the CAV filter and the raw water strainer, these brackets will be bonded to the bulkhead in the engine bay and the parts fitted to them, all this means is there are not a load of thru bolting to be done, looks much tidier....

anyway pic....
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Old 04 October 2014, 17:20   #19
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Very, very tidy. Hope all goes well
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Old 04 October 2014, 17:26   #20
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