A nice bit of work.

[jwalker]

Another nice bit of DIY by skilled ribnet member, ian dl.
He also makes some other rather nice things. Perhaps he'll come along and show them.

[martini]

Looks very nicely made
I hope the bow of the boat rides up on the rollers before it hits that rear crossmember, looks like it could do with another set right at the back but I'm sure he's thought of that!

[Nasher]

Looks very good.

I'm sure the rear x-member is a removable trailerboard mount.

Nasher.

[martini]

There's also a v shaped cross member just in front of the trailer board, could be an optical illusion though

[Hightower]

Perhaps he'd like to come down South an have a look at my trailer

[iandl]

Thanks Jeff ...nasher...yes its removable ...the axles will slide the full length of the trailer if i need to or even cut it down a bit.....it took a few months of playing with designs in cad before i built it ....it tows fantastic kept a steady 65-70 in its 400mile maiden voyage ...its now sitting in Henshaws how do you insert smileys? sorry to see your problems hightower ...if your ever in central scotland pop in and i'll fix it and fit a proper neck...my galvanisers do an emergency turnaround on parts at a premium if need be. its not a difficult repair more of an inconvienience

my hydraulic bolster seats are coming on ....they go for the upholsery next week ...the stainless lower frame has come out well

here are some of my other things i make .....i rebuilt an old bridgeport cnc machine with all the latest hardware and software and it allows me to make almost anything .....i am currently concentrating on stainless planes as i like machining it and it doesnt rust .....i am a bit of a perfectionist and work all my planes to 1 thou or less ......i never test a plane before i sell it ...i pefer the customer to give feedback on how it performs ..if its made perfect then it'll work perfect ....i can show the process of how i make a stainless one if anyones interested.

this is just a hobby and i got the rib to get me out the workshop from time to time

thanks for your comments

Ian

[BassBoy]

Beautiful. I'd have one for the mantlepeice. Dread to think how many hours to create such works of art.

[Hightower]

They're absoloutly fantastic! I would be interested in seeing the manufacture of the Stainless ones. What Bridgeport is it? An interact or something older?

[iandl]

thanks for the comments

a few pics as requested ......

in the first pic you see a set of 3... i made 10 off and 9 came out perfect ...1 is used as a test piece before machining.
the base is made of 1 solid piece which is machined firstly on a jig for the outer profile.....i make my own jig screws so i can be sure of repeatable accuracy ...i then machine the rivets out the solid metal right along the sides ...these are done on one pass at 1/4" deep with an 8mm cutter ...i tell the machine its an 8.4mm cutter but its actually an 8mm cutter i then go over it again in the same program and give the rivets a clean up ....the rivets are 4.72mm and the side holes are 4.8mm ....this gives just enough to allow the sides to drop in ....they must just drop in or i reject them if i need to hammer them on. i then go round the top of the rivets with a chamfer ...this aids the peining process.
the front boss centre boss and rear chair are all made out of solid and machined in a similar way ...the centre boss is then attached then peined which damages it ....it then gets remachined in position at the same angle as the bed and slot for the adjuster ....i then machine the bed and split it from the front. this can take a full day of fussing around with the dial guage to get perfect before i cut.
the stems are also stainless which i cut a hexagonal in one end and broach the brass thumbscrew onto ...this ensures it wont go slack........the handles are machine to drop onto the rear chairs and are screwed from the bottom.
the wood used is pre ban brazilin rosewood
i made a full former which the parts are inserted around then i pein the rivets ...opposing sides at a time to prevent twisiting. it is kept in the former and skimmed before final flattening......i use engineers blue and 2 different surface plate to get as flat as i can ...usually around the 1 thou mark
takes around 400hours to machine a batch of 10 and around 50hours to assemble and finish ....i only use danish oil as a finish as it will show up the slightest blemish ....

there fun to make.

[codprawn]

Amazing - incredible!!!

Maybe you should turn your hand to something like instrument making - a nice orrery for example.

[iandl]

thanks Codprawn .......i have dabbled in the instrument making but its too difficult to aquire correctly dried timbers , i won a few awards for some of my woodwork .....what annoyed me about it though i was entered into the proffesional catagories instead of amateur but i still won.

This jigsaw table was particularly hard to make , the rules were for something to be made out of a 4" x 2" x 96" piece of timber and this is what i made...the perspex was changed for glass before i entered it

I have sold some planes to instrument makers who now will only use my planes

[Neil Harvey]

Come on then Ian,
How is it going building the Shakey???

Yoiu have not given us build pics

I guess if the trailer is at Henshaws, then so is the hull for tubing?

Are you building an A-frame for her? If yes would be interested to see the design and how you are handling it to take the battery/oil boxes into account.

Cheers

Neil

[iandl]

Hi Neil,
yep the hull is still at henshaws ..... due to pickup on my next leave probobly around mid april..... I dont ever rush anything

i have gone for the aquaflyte console ..its sitting in the snooker room at present gathering dust ....i have made some hydraulic flip down bolsters which are due to go to the upholsterers this week ....I'm chuffed with the stainless lower frames

it will have a double A frame but i'm undecided on the rear seating as yet ....as you know it has a battery box either side of the transome but i am thinking of removing these and building in a rear bench setup inset to the tubes similar to the scorpions and revengers ....once the tubes are on i can mould around them if i go this route .....i would also make it strong enough to build the A frames onto this ....the batteries etc can go into the console

I have gone for tapered tubes like the revenger the same colour as codprawns ...Alpin Blue i think its called .....with a couple of grey boarding patchs..nothing too fancy .....we'll see how it turns out.

quite fancy doing the deck with the artificial teak .....looks the biz ....

cheers

I

[codprawn]

Alpin Blue is correct - make sure you use some form of protector on it or it WILL oxidise(even in Winter) and then you need loads of hard work to get it back. i currently use 303 Aerospace protector which ain't cheap and seems to do the same job as Armour All or STP. When I next do it I am going to try the Johnsons Klear floor polish!!!

[SeaSkills]

Originally Posted by iandl

....it tows fantastic kept a steady 65-70 in its 400mile maiden voyage ...

Careful .. walls have ears, and all that. I'm sure you really meant to say that it tows really well up to the speed limit and would probably tow well even faster if you were allowed

[iandl]

Originally Posted by SeaSkills

Careful .. walls have ears, and all that. I'm sure you really meant to say that it tows really well up to the speed limit and would probably tow well even faster if you were allowed

oh yes i forgot my car has oversize wheels so will only be be doin 60

honest


Thanks for the tip Codprawn.

Niel ...there are a few options on an A frame with the batt/oil box's in situe .......i stared at a picture for a while and did have an option ...one involved a single mount onto the transom with the second tube tapering into it just above the transome....seemed to work well years ago when they built crane jibs etc...Hyrdrocons spring to mind ...single point fix.
also possible to step over the boxs tight against the tubes and gives the option of some nice curves



cheers
I

[Limey Linda]

Originally Posted by codprawn

i currently use 303 Aerospace protector which ain't cheap and seems to do the same job as Armour All or STP. When I next do it I am going to try the Johnsons Klear floor polish!!!

I have just completed a major tube restoration. Red tubes, 12 years old, never covered or cleaned. Some areas had turned a chalky light brown. Did tests with both 303 and Armourall after multiple scrub downs with toluene. 303 came out the best in terms of colour restore. It is expensive if you buy a 8oz bottle but I can get a gallon for $65.00 at local marine store. That should last a few years. BTW, a tip on cleaning with toluene: use loads of rough cloths, like cut up old bath towel, and change/turn often. Otherwise you are just rubbing the disolved crap back in. The top panel of the tubes was worn threadbare so I painted with Tuff Coat. Came out great but I do now have two tone red tubes. Materials were less than $200.00 but I bet I have 80 hours of work into the tubes so far.

[codprawn]

I wasn't using the 303 as a restorer - already got the colour back with Traffic Film Remover and loads of elbow grease!!!

I have also bought a gallon of the 303 but I really wonder if you would be better off with the cheaper stuff slapped on a bit more often.

[OceanEco]

Codders, you want to be careful using 303 if you use it to often it absorbs into hypalon and makes gluing a bear if you need to patch or add rub strakes etc. I still use it but nowhere near as much. I had to glue on some D rings on my old boat which saw 303 regularly and it was awful, no adhesion. i talked with a local tube builder and repairer and he has had the same experience.

Ian beautiful planes..... most woodworking tools made these days are total cr!p. your planes are awesome and you are very talented. All the woodworking tools I use to repair wooden boats are around a 100 years old, way better steel. Thanks for sharing.

Simon

[nickd]

Originally Posted by iandl

oh yes i forgot my car has oversize wheels so will only be be doin 60

honest


Thanks for the tip Codprawn.

cheers
I

Erm, don't you mean undersize wheels? If you had oversize wheels then it would be going even faster than the indicated speed......

Nick

ps: Fantastic work - I love precision made stuff.