Rewire update

I have most of the wiring in place, fitted a fuel gauge, Radio etc. Just going to start the final and most fiddly bit, the termination to the new terminal/fuse board. Still a bit to do.

Looks good! Have you checked the compass with power on to the gps and radio? I had problems with interfernce and getting true reading on compass :@

whow chris looking good chief.
could you not fit a kitchen sink in there some where ;)

is the wheel cold in the winter !!!!!

and not a wire in sight :D all infra red :eek:

p

Looks good! Have you checked the compass with power on to the gps and radio? I had problems with interfernce and getting true reading on compass :@ Not much room to put things, if i have a problem i might fit a fluxgate in the bottom of the console.

whow chris looking good chief.
could you not fit a kitchen sink in there some where ;)

is the wheel cold in the winter !!!!!

and not a wire in sight :D all infra red :eek:

p The sink is at the rear:) as for the wheel, i have a secret device to keep my hands warm......called willowkis:)

Looks good, Chris. Are these waterproof toggles you've used?

Is that a new steering wheel too?

Wow Chris this is neat how you haf fit all in, an surely you will not be out of communications. What a woman Willowkis if she can keep your warm in the winter time, Steinunn will freeze me for sure :D :D

Looks good, Chris. Are these waterproof toggles you've used?

Is that a new steering wheel too? Thanks, yes they are IP67 so are the leds and S/Steel they have a silicone rubber seal at the base of the toggle..not cheap but good quality. the previous switches had rubber covers over the toggles but they seem to perish in no time. the LEDS have an O ring seal behind the flange. The steering wheel is original.
I wil post some pics of the wiring when its complete, i have wired discreet circuits to each load, both neg and pos, so that i wont have groups of things fail if i lose an earth. I have put an extra Auto bilge pump(there are now three) with the ability to switch all on or just the Auto for when its left unattended.

All the connector blocks and fuse blocks are marine with S/steel components, I decided on fuses as i thought they may be more reliable given the pounding a hull gets.

All the connections are soldered to tinned eyed connectors and then sealed with adhesive lined heat shrink sleeving. in line connections to cables are soldered, sleeved and then wrapped in self amalgamating tape rather than using crimp connectors.

I am going to use one battery for starting and one for the equipment with a DC to DC charger, the equipment supply will be fused at the battery and then again in the console. (the existing wiring was a liability, they had used a piece of three core mains cable from the battery to the console without a sign of a fuse)

It sounds good. I certainly go along with the discreet circuit principle.

Hi Chrisallse
Question why have you gone down the route of soldering?
In PBO and other publications you see 'experts' saying not to solder but to use crimps as the flux in the solder can eat the metal away.
On ships you need to fit multistrand wire so when vibration finally causes a strand to break you dont get an open circuit.
When you solder you create a single strand, though crimping must do the same.
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James

Hi Chrisallse
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James

Makes sense to me ....Thanks!

Hi Chrisallse
Question why have you gone down the route of soldering?
In PBO and other publications you see 'experts' saying not to solder but to use crimps as the flux in the solder can eat the metal away.
On ships you need to fit multistrand wire so when vibration finally causes a strand to break you dont get an open circuit.
When you solder you create a single strand, though crimping must do the same.
A tip from the subsea guys was when making a wiring joint thats going to get wet was to put tiny 'o'rings on the cores just back fron the end of the insulation, so when you shrunk the glue filled heat shrink over it all it added to the seals.
Rgds
James
Hi James,
Dont like crimps find them unreliable particularly on plain copper wire as the wire wicks up the salt laden moisture...if you cut an old cable back a metre the copper will be black. dont understand why the flux in good quality solder would "eat the metal" as every piece of electronis equipment on a boat has solder connections....its not as if you use Bakers Fluid for electrical work.:)

here are a few pics of the rewire, view inside the console of the main panel and the rear of the Switch panel..........ever wished you hadn't started something?:)

Chris, you've switched both the +ve and -ve supply?

Chris, you've switched both the +ve and -ve supply?

Is there a problem with that? It looks like spaghetti junction to me... :p

Yes, everything has a completely separate supply with DP switches.

Is there a problem with that? It looks like spaghetti junction to me... :p

Sorry Willow, I was just askin'.

Sorry Willow, I was just askin'.

Oooh you've got me wrong....... I thought there may have been a problem?

Kim :hi:

Nah, I thought maybe there was an anti-earthloop strategy, or somethin'.

Is the 601 new? I (may) be wrong but i seam to remember you can't connect the 'command mic' to the front socket of this radio... only the supplied standard speaker mic.

Also have you rigged up the hailer output to a loudspeaker - the auto foghorn is very good.

Superb work BTW. Been there, done that and i know how long it all takes. It's also very comforting, however, to be at sea knowing you wired it yourself!!!

Thanks Daniel.....i wondered how long it would be before that was noticed:) i Havn't got round to wiring the remote mic skt yet so i just put it in the front skt for the pic.....well spotted (tes have fitted a horn LS on the A frame)

worse bit done :)

Flips it looks like B T phone exchange. :D Does Looks nice & neat

How do you dis-arm it!! :D

WOW Chris this looks fantastic.
I'm quite an ignorant when it comes to electrics but this configuration looks like you are behind the dashboard of a plane. I don't think I'll find any one to do my elecrics in such a way.
WELL DONE!!http://www.scubaboard.com/images/smilies/More%20Smiles/35.gif

Top man Chris - looks wider than the console :D

whats the red thingy on the bottom left side

Paul

Hi Paul, no it does fit inside (just) The red thing is a Fuse Block on the supply cable from the battery

Really neat job.
What is the ST60 reading? Looks like a close hauled wind direction in the last photo.
The Navman 3100, is that a fuel computer?

Give your self a pat on the back! Nice work!
Nick

What is the ST60 reading? Looks like a close hauled wind direction in the last photo.
The Navman 3100, is that a fuel computer? The ST60 is a fluxgate compass and the 3100 is the new fuel comp from navman, they do one for diesel too.

Still going....Got all the instruments talking to each other and the Fluxgate is working too, very impressive the way it works.

The plotter(gps) is now talking to the radio (for dsc) and also to the Fuel gauge, it will be interesting to see how the engine uses fuel at different speeds, Fixed up the new aerial ( 1mtr F/glass) and could listen to radio woolwich all day, knocks spots off the old ribrader aerial that was previously fitted. also connected up the ext speaker horn for the Hailer and foghorn facility that the Icom 601 has...very good also Wired in the Command Mic Skt.

next thing is the Batteries, Etc.http://www.boatmadforum.co.uk/images/smilies/dizzy.gif

Good progress so you will be on water soon

Bogi

Well done Chris. It's a bigger job than is generally realised. Does your plotter affect the radio in any way?
Do you go out at night? (On the boat, smartie.)

Good point...I Did notice that when i did a scan it sits on two channels (9 and 60 something) because of some noise preventing the scan fron continuing until you skip the offending channel altough at the moment they share a temp supply. I might run a seperate supply from the other battery if it keeps being a problem.

thats the only problem i can see so far...any ideas?

Well, I asked because I had noise on the vhf, obtrusively loud. I did lots of extra screening and checking for earth loops etc. but came up with nothing. I finally found the cause and I had to make filters for the supply lines to get rid of it. The display illumination circuit of the gps uses a mark space (on/off) switching to control the dimming. This was putting a buzz onto the supply line. I already had spare cabling laid in from the battery but using a separate supply didn't resolve it. The filters were necesary.

I asked about night boating because you may find your led's too bright when you've got your night eyes and you may need to be able to switch them off or dim them.

What make of plotter have you got? I have ferrites on the supply, it may be something local causing the noise i will have to have a play, could even be picking up a field from the mains extension lead thats in the boat for my soldering iron..They are not ultra bright leds so they should not be too much of a problem, if they are i will make a cover for them

What make of plotter have you got? I have ferrites on the supply, it may be something local causing the noise i will have to have a play, could even be picking up a field from the mains extension lead thats in the boat for my soldering iron..They are not ultra bright leds so they should not be too much of a problem, if they are i will make a cover for them

gArfies got ferrites unfortunately the little minx's run up his trouser leg the other day and bit him on the betty's

to get back on track, do you have an easy access route to your fuses?

What make of plotter have you got? A Garmin 2010. My Garmin depth also puts a buzz on the supply and so does the Raymarine radar (a bit).
I have ferrites on the supply, So did I. They had no noticeable effect.
.. it may be something local causing the noise i will have to have a play, could even be picking up a field from the mains extension lead thats in the boat for my soldering iron.. Grasping at straws, Chris.
They are not ultra bright leds so they should not be too much of a problem, if they are i will make a cover for them Aye they will. They're bright little bu**ers in the dark. Common the led grounds and put a switch in there to turn them all off if necessary. It'll save the hassle of making a set of covers.

A wee edit: my radar and sounder are blipping the cd/radio and they cause it to seek when the station signal is week. Just a thought.

gArfies got ferrites unfortunately the little minx's run up his trouser leg the other day and bit him on the betty's

to get back on track, do you have an easy access route to your fuses?
:) Not too bad the fuse panels are in the console (see previous pic)

Fired up the full panel tonight, no faults (phew) Radio problem now O.K scans normally, must have been a bit of local interference. Does anyone know what the spare wire does at the console end of the loom Mariner 115 4Stroke?

Yeh, a good feeling, eh.

Getting Close, another couple of weekends should do it, Just got to fix the Echomax, mount the fluxgate sensor and a few small jobs. The panel is now fitted in place and most of the wiring is complete, just the bilge blower and the Anchor light on top of the Echomax to connect.

Brilliant job Chris

Bogi :hi:

Chris the electrician I got from Scorpion in Greece to do this job on my Falcons asked for Euro 400 for each boat.

Looks very nice. However - is there an enclosed speaker in the Radio - if so you may need to check on whetehr it's affecting your compass - and also - if you intend to fit a phone holder somewhere - DO check its positioning by making and receiving calls (preferably in a few different physical locations) and checking if this has any effect on the compass.

Despite what many 'hardeneded' travellers seem to believe, (i) mobile phones DO generate spurious radiation & magnetism and (ii) Compasses are very sensitive - It's better to check.

chrisallse

Very nice job on the wiring. Have you borrowed a steering wheel off a maxi-90 for driving your rib:p

Cheers

Mark

Looks very nice. However - is there an enclosed speaker in the Radio - if so you may need to check on whetehr it's affecting your compass - and also - if you intend to fit a phone holder somewhere - DO check its positioning by making and receiving calls (preferably in a few different physical locations) and checking if this has any effect on the compass.

Despite what many 'hardeneded' travellers seem to believe, (i) mobile phones DO generate spurious radiation & magnetism and (ii) Compasses are very sensitive - It's better to check. If you look to the left of the console you will see a ST60 fluxgate compass, the sensor head is fitted at the front of the console at deck level well away from any fields.:) but thanks for the tips.

chrisallse

Very nice job on the wiring. Have you borrowed a steering wheel off a maxi-90 for driving your rib:p

Cheers

Mark Its big but not THAT Big:p