Best waterproof connectors

Being lazy and wanting a quick fix I need to connect my new bilge pump - it's exactly the same as the old one. I can't find where the wires join so I was thinking of just snipping the wires in the transom well and splicing on the new ones. What is the best way to make these waterproof? Heatshrink or bullet connectors(yuk) or what?

I will do a proper job when the boat is out of the water - the way the weather is here I prob only have about 1/2 an hour without getting soaked to do it in.

try a through connecter crimp and some of this
http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/plastidip.htm

You can always wrap it in self amalgamating tape
not sure on the spelling

James

I did think of both those - but haven't got any - will have to order some anyway - always useful.

Hi Codprawn,

I used a cone shaped connector, you twist the wires together and push then in the cone then crimp it. The cone is made of plastic so the outer is waterproof and after i'd crimped it i filled the top of the cone with silicone.

Cheers,
Fraser

Codders, get a length of silicon tube used for fuel line on models. Slide a length about 25-30mm onto the cable where it is to be joined. It's very grippy, you'll need to work it along the cable. Tin both cable ends to be joined with solder. Snip them off at 45º and about 2mm long. Re-tin one of them with a wee blob of solder. Bring the 45º ends together and flow the blob of solder to make the join. Wait until it cools and then slide the silicon tube over the joint to make the seal. Totally watertight.

A couple of these http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=16129F should do the trick. I usually overcoat with adhesive lined shrink tubing, just to be sure.

jky

As I happen to have some silicone tubing handy I will do that for now - great idea!!! I will try to get some of the Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink for when I do it later - thanks all.

This may be of use

http://www.rib-shop.com/prodtype.asp?PT_ID=11&strPageHistory=cat

We use solder and glue lined heatshrink - 2 layers for anything that may be submerged in regular use.

Codders,

Try Farnell catalogue and get some Raychem crimps, they are a crimp that can be heatshrunk on (also has hotmelt glue inside) then slip some glue lined heat shrink over this or alternatively PM me with your address and Ill send you what you need (please include sizes i.e the conductor and the dia of insulation)

Reason being it isnt cheap and they like you to buy lots!

For small quantities of those adhesive-lined heat-shrinkable butt crimp connectors I'd suggest trying Halfords. My local one in Preston had them last time I looked.

Thanks everyone - I found some suitable adehsive/heat shrink crimps in Maplin - didn't think to look in Halfords BUT I hate crimp connectors with a passion. Nothing beats a good soldered joint. I think I will try to get some normal glue lined heatshrink or failing that use normal heatshrink and run some superglue around the ends - it's capillary action will be ideal.

The ABYC has (I believe) actually gone away from recommending solder joints on wire.

Something about the way the solder wicks up the conductor; any movement thereafter is localized to where the wicking ends, with the result being broken conductors (reduced current capability at best, no conductivity at worst.) I can see how they'd reach that, even if I've never actually seen the failure mode.

They now specify crimp connections rather than solder joints.

jky

It is true that a solder joint is quite brittle - in fact the most flexible cables are just bare braid as used on engine earthing straps. However I have never seen a crimp or a bullet connector that doesn't play up. One of my best mates used to be a really good auto electrician before he changed business - he swears by good old fashioned solder - and the massive old soldering iron he kept on a gas burner!!!

We use tinned marine grade wire and the glue in the heatshrink sets quite stiff and supports the joint to prevent flexing ........... :thumbs:

Just done it - a day without rain at last!!! Cable was already proper tinned stuff so used the trusty gas soldering iron - found some heatshrink I think was glue lined - ran superglue around the ends to make sure and then self amalgamating tape over the top to be safe. See what you mean Cookee about the heatshrink supporting the wires better - not much chance of fatigue I hope.

Why do bilges stink so much though??? Even on an open boat with gallons of fresh rain water over the last few weeks pumped out every few days and it still reeks!!!

Hi Codders
Pour 1/2 teaspoon of bleach in your wet bilge. Trust me on this one I run a swimming pool repair/service business.

Why do bilges stink so much though??? Even on an open boat with gallons of fresh rain water over the last few weeks pumped out every few days and it still reeks!!! It'll be the smell of the catalyst used in the resin. It is reckoned to take about 2 years before most of it has found its way out of the laminate.

Hi Codders
Pour 1/2 teaspoon of bleach in your wet bilge. Trust me on this one I run a swimming pool repair/service business.

Yes I thought of this one myself - it would get rid of the slime a treat- bleach is amazing stuff!!!

It'll be the smell of the catalyst used in the resin. It is reckoned to take about 2 years before most of it has found its way out of the laminate.

I don't think it's that - it's not a chemical smell - more like a sewer!!!

OK. I'd forgotten your boat took a couple of years to complete...the smell will be gone by now.http://www.boatmad.com/forum/images/smilies/bolt.gif

http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/plastidip.htm

try this plastic dip paint for boat connectors

it looks good

thanks
stephen

http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/plastidip.htm

try this plastic dip paint for boat connectors

it looks good

thanks
stephen

Errr, as Bedajim recommended in post 2 :]
I think Codprawn fixed this a couple of years ago

And the link still doesn't work after 2 years

And the link still doesn't work after 2 years

try the on button on your pc first :]