Bilge pump prob

Just discovered about 6" of water in my bilges - when I checked I discovered the fuse had blown. It is a Rule 500gph automatic. It works on manual fine. I changed the fuse and it runs constantly - obviously why the fuse blew.

The impeller doesn't appear blocked. It pumps out loads on manual as I said. I think there must be a constant load though which is why it isn't shutting off automatically.

Any ideas? How do you dismantle the pump - does the red plastic top come off?

Just discovered about 6" of water in my bilges

Common problem with Prosports. The deck needs to be sealed off more effectively than they are ex factory.


It is a Rule 500gph automatic.


If I was rigging that size boat, I'd fit a minimum of 1500gph.


DM

Don't think it's down to the builder - the boat is open and there has been loads of rain - it has to go somewhere!!!

I agree on the size of the pump - I will fit a 2nd one later - prob a 2000 or even 4000 gph - I will still keep a little 500 though as it sucks the bilges totally dry!!!

I tried pulling a Rule apart once but no joy-it'll break before it comes apart. Is it worth fitting a separate float switch? You could have one or both pumps running off it then when you upgrade pumps and it's cheaper to replace than the whole unit.

Don't think it's down to the builder

On all the prosports I've seen, the hull voids drain into the bilge well so if there's 6" water in there, there's 6" water throughout the hull. The bilge drain pipe and the fuel lines should exit through witches tits the same as the other cabling. You would then be able to fit a waterproof hatch cover to the bilge well.

The way it's set up at the moment, if you ever take a wave over the boat, the hull will be full of water and you will be relying on a puny pump to get rid of it. A rib deck should be sealed and totally self draining.

Prosport also had the quaint little practice of fitting a junction box with all the nav light/bilge pump wiring in the bilge well. :eek:

I beg to differ there - you are right in one sense but the drain hole from the rest of the boat into the sump is quite small - even the small pump I have will empty the well and shut off BEFORE the whole bilge is empty - conversely if you fill the sump from a huge bucket not that much finds it's way forward. Remember there is also gravity on your side - it all drains to the back.

I could rig up a cover to go over the sump which would stop it filling up from a wave but to be honest it would only save perhaps 10 gallons of additional weight.

Remember 6" of water is ONLY in the sump - considering how much rain we have that doesn't bother me - you should see the other boats down there. I suppose the best solution is an overall cover but I am still looking for a sensibly priced one.

Fortunately there is no wiring other than the pump in the bilge - I think!!!

You say the whole deck should be sealed - to be honest I prefer my setup because I KNOW when there is water present - I have read anout people on here suddenly finding loads of water under their decks they knew nothing about - even on Scorpions!!!

I can't really say whether a unitized unit or separate pump and float switch is better. I just replaced my switch (Rule float switch) after it failed (never turned on.) Checked out the switch on removal, and it would a) not switch anything when moved through its range of motion, and b) the float was, determined by shaking, about 3/4 full of water. Pump was still OK, though, if somewhat modestly sized (1100 GPH, I think.)

I made a new bracket (new switch had to be located higher), and mounted one of these:

http://www.waterwitchinc.com/product_sheet/bilge_switchsheet.html

Seems to work pretty well, though I have not yet needed the auto feature. Tested OK when filling the bilge with a garden hose.

jky

I have heard good things about the water wich - let us know how you get on.

I guess if you have a pump with a external or internal mechanical switch you just need to routinely inspect and clean it. I have a pump with a built in switch which as of yet has given me no problems, but a electronic switch seems like it might be a lot more reliable. What ever happened to self bailing cockpits? My own boat takes on very little water due to design, if you have openings to the bilge seal em off! It is a minor issue with most ribs in any case...

Just discovered about 6" of water in my bilges - when I checked I discovered the fuse had blown. It is a Rule 500gph automatic. It works on manual fine. I changed the fuse and it runs constantly - obviously why the fuse blew.

The impeller doesn't appear blocked. It pumps out loads on manual as I said. I think there must be a constant load though which is why it isn't shutting off automatically.

Any ideas? How do you dismantle the pump - does the red plastic top come off?

On the rule pump I had it all came apart and I discovered the plastic sliding float switch was gummed up with crud from the bilge. Cleaned it all up and put it back together, worked fine with no problems!
hope this helps.

On the rule pump I had it all came apart and I discovered the plastic sliding float switch was gummed up with crud from the bilge. Cleaned it all up and put it back together, worked fine with no problems!
hope this helps.


Which Rule pump did you have and how did it come apart? On mine it's electronic and senses load - no float switch.

I had (and still have) one of the rule autos. very good. previous one fried when i forgot to fit the mesh and it melted with a stone stuck in the impellor. stripped it to find:
it is not possible to strip without breaking, they are glued and sealed
there is no float switch, just a small psb which acts as the load sensor

i rate them highly - well designed and very reliable.

I have heard good things about the water wich - let us know how you get on.


I will, should I think about it. Hopefully, the thing will never actually be of use. Time will tell on that, though.

jky

Which Rule pump did you have and how did it come apart? On mine it's electronic and senses load - no float switch.

There's a couple of types; some with internal or external float switches, or you can get external solid state switches. Yours, I believe, comes on periodically and if there's nothing to pump, it shuts off after a few seconds.

I personally don't like the idea of that, as the current drain on a boat that's sitting is considerably higher than a pump with a switch. That's jst me, though.

On my smaller boat, the 500gph Rule that I had featured a removable base. I believe it was a sort of bayonet mount. You mount the base to whatever you're putting it on, and then snap the rest of the pump onto it.

I do agree with others, though; 500gph sounds pretty small for a boat as large as yours.

jky

Yes it is - when it comes out of the water there will be another pump fitted - 2000gph or similar. I also have 2 elephants trunks so it's not too bad.

On all the prosports I've seen, the hull voids drain into the bilge well so if there's 6" water in there, there's 6" water throughout the hull. The bilge drain pipe and the fuel lines should exit through witches tits the same as the other cabling. You would then be able to fit a waterproof hatch cover to the bilge well.



Hmm, yes and no. I've got what must be one of the last hulls built by Jason and it does have a bilge sump completely separate from the rest of the hull bilge. That's not to say water doesn't still find its way into the hull bilge through the pipe glands etc, but at least any water breaking over the stern should mainly end up in the sump. I think this was a 'Prosport modification' :D that they did at the end of their days, all the others I've seen including Cods and my first hull were completely open to water flooding.

For what it's worth, I now run a rule semi automatic pump. Has a float switch to start it, and then runs until no more load on impellor for 15 secs. Seems fine so far.